I Bought This $16,000 UTV For $3,000. How Bad Could It Be?

I know it's a small thing, but of the two or so hours of your videos I have watched, I appreciate the fact that you don't curse in your videos. My 9 year old and 5 year old daughters enjoy watching motor tear down videos with me and I certainly do appreciate a mechanic that has the ability to share their experience without the colorful language!

Cheer's!

Rod bolt broke and took everything else out.

It's already been said but that bolt either snapped first or just came loose with one bolt off the rod cap the other side of the rod snapped and then voila.

Seen this before.
This is why there is almost no metal in oil, happened fast!

On your oil filter they all have a one-way rubber diaphragm in them and if they're old that diaphragm will fail and over time the oil will just drain back to the pan.

Rod cap bolt came loose I bet and that's what caused the catastrophic failure...

Previous rebuilder messed up

It is obvious to me that a rod bolt back out from not being torqued right or locked in place and eventually the other bolt broke from the stress of holding the cap on with only one bolt.
Then the rod came loose from crank and immediately every thing else happen all at once

Check the torque on the undamaged big end bearing cap. I think they were not torqued up right.

I think the case is fixable by a good welder, finish the rebuild, and you will definitely get back what you have into it when selling it even if you have to by a new case as well.I agree with other comments, it could be either the rod bolts or something punched a hole into the case from the outside possiblly but otherwise an issue with the previous rebuilder.

I wouldn't even want it EVEN IF IT WAS GIVEN AND FUNCTIONAL.. CRAP MADE FOR US TO RUIN OUR WALLETS

Hi, great piece, I would have thrown in some cuss words for sure when I saw the big end. Hows about check the crank for true between some centres to see if it is bent. A little bit could be straightened in a press. Stone the rough patch by the oil hole. Buy a barrel, rod and gasket set, clean up the piston and weld the crankcase.And run it. Betya it runs fine. I am pretty sure the big end bolts were not tightened up enough and that caused the failure when it all came loose. Or put out a plea for a second hand engine! I bet Matt's recovery knows of a crashed one. PEACE!

The guy who sold it to you lied about the vehicle just shutting off. There would have been a large bang. Polaris equals junk.

Bolts came off rod on leftside

Dude, put a Volkswagen engine in it. LOL. Just kidding I don’t know if that is even possible. Just a dumb ass joke to lighten up the mood.

Dude, like one of your other subscribers said find a crashed unit and take the engine out of it, rebuild it because if you rebuild it you know it will be done right then part out what ever is left of the donor that will probably get you back the money you spent on the donor or close. Then you will have a sweet ride. Plus I’m hooked on this revival so there’s you-tube content too. Good luck bro. I hope you can fix it don’t give up and part it out we will be so disappointed. Jim from Rockford, Illinois.

Dinner motor ?

🤔🤔

Come on boy put some stank on that breaker bar

Chain goes on when the case is split into half

the guy blew two engines so think about it, he over revved it

That broken bolt appears to be a rod cap bolt. Or a rogue bolt was accidentally dropped without knowledge.

100% textbook case of rod bolt fatigue failure from being under torqued. Any race engine builder has seen this failure many times. The reason the bolts fail from being under torqued is the difference between constant stress and cyclic stress. Rod bolts are designed to be torqued to create a constant stress in the bolt which is higher than the cyclic loading that the bolts will see when the piston goes to top dead center every revolution. A steel bolt under constant stress from bolt torque will never fail, but when the stress in the bolt is less than the stress the bolt sees every time the piston goes to top dead center, the bolts see the extra stress from the weight of the piston and rod. Even though this may be just a tiny bit of extra stress, over millions of cycles it will create a fatigue crack in the bolt which will get worse until it finally catastrophically fails.

The fact that the bearings, oil pump, and crank show no wear at all means it wasn’t an oiling failure. If the oiling had been bad, you would have seen worn bearings, probably heat damage on both rods and the crankshaft. This was a one time big bang event…….

It is possible that the former builder forgot to torque the rod bolt, but the fact that it lasted 1000 miles would lead me to believe that it had some torque on it. Almost certainly the problem was that the previous builder torqued the rod bolts dry, without lube. At work, we do bolted joint calculations all the time for critical fasteners, and you would be shocked by the difference in clamp load and bolt stress between a bolt being torqued dry and one properly lubricated. What happens is that friction under the head and in the threads of the bolt account for too high a percentage of the applied torque. Due to the friction the torque wrench reads correctly, but the bolt doesn’t have nearly enough clamp load and bolt stress, so it sees the cyclic stress every cycle until it goes boom.

Huge tech tip, never break critical engine fasteners loose with an impact. Break the bolts loose by hand so you can get a feel for how tight the bolts were, and if one or more comes up loose it will give you a big clue. Once the bolts are cracked then run them out with the impact.

No mystery someone didn't torque one of the rod bolts

bolt rod bearing loose

Second hand engine

Hydro locked

looks like the cap bolt snapped.

comtamination of feul would be my guess

I think that broken rod bolt found in the pan was the culprit. It broke and after that the lower end grenaded.

Center rod cap bolt didn't get torqued

Rebuild it and get as much you can, too nice with everything else on it.

I am also in agreement with the rod cap bolt scenario. I do believe that was the undoing of this engine

A good tig welder can fix that case no problem. I have done it for 35 years. Case easy fix

Hey brother. I’m thinking either the rod bearing was the wrong size and it eventually cracked the lower rod half. Or they didn’t use new rod bolts when they did the rebuild.

rod bolts need new bolts when you rebuild

I think the Conrod cap bolt sheared off.
Love your videos and how you present. Always something to learn

The fact that you found an intact rod bolt in the oil pan tells me that was the original problem. It was definitely knocking before it blew

Look for a used engine

Too much skinny pedal?

Question.. Do you actually sell the bikes and all the quads you fix?

🏍👍👍👍👍

Rod bolt probably came loose and finally broke. Engine probably had a loud knock from the loose rod bolt .

Get a nice set of impact sockets and they will get those bolts off. It’s not that the gun can’t take them off it’s because your not using the right socket

I’ve brought 5 atv’s back from the dead…watching these videos shows me just how lucky I was with the machines I fixed….fortunately I’ve not even come close to the problems I’ve seen you come across…I’m learning a lot from your content, though…I’ll def keep watching!

Pro tip those bearings are bad from debris likey metal

Buying used sxs's is a risky business! I've seen how they get driven. And submerged!

The rod bolts on that were not torked...on that rod the cap came off in rotation

I suspect the connecting rod end cap bolts were over torqued is my suspect recommend try to find a used engine

Looks like rod bolt cam loose then crank kissed through it through the block and locked it up good find 👌