Power Anything with USB-C Instead! (USB PD DIY)

do current lenovo thinkpad power supply usb C (symmetric round) need the negotiating "PD" chip on the connector end, or are the red, blue, ground wires connected straight through ?

Good concise video, thanks for not stretching it to 15 mins!

I wish they could use a jumper to switch the output voltage.

Thank you for sharing!

Great advice. It makes sense to consolidate many of the old power delivery to USB-C, and with those handy PD boards being easy to exchange you have a lot of flexibility to power most old tech.
Not sure why you would consider a USB battery bank more reliable though. They are mostly Li-ion or LiPo based, so it's going to be the same chemistry. You can get LiFePo4 packs that are inherrently way more stable and safe (and last a lot longer in terms of cycles) if you want a better alternative. The only real downside is a little lower energy density.
I suppose you do get a capable controller with some safety features built in with a USB power pack, but thats something you could add to any raw pack too. Anything lithium based really isn't a good idea to run completely raw for several reasons. They arent like old lead acids you could abuse all you wanted :P

Thompson Kevin Moore Sarah Jackson Maria

Alas, it does not work well when trying to power 12VDC LEDs with a very capable PD power adapter. For some reason, if the power adapter is plugged first and the LED second, it works. But if the LEDs are plugged first (as in 99% of devices) then switching the power adapter on makes the LED badly blink in an endless cycle. Perhaps this is due to the inrush current that confuses the PD board or the power adapter (?)
Bummer.

круто, и очень удобно

Well well well, it seems i have found the thing i need for all my projects now. Do you have any idea in how to make a multi powersupply unit that can deliver power from all the batteries to power hungry things like lighting or just function as one big battery for things you want to charge in remote areas? meaning that it does not communicate just on voltage, but does what the charger does(modulate the voltage). Do i have to jerryrig cables to a board that delivers the max voltage to a board that delivers it onto an inverter of some kind? like 12 volt from all units spearately to a controller based on available draw? and just use an inverter that is like 12V 600W max and then do like a regular outlet to deliver it to whatever i need?

A have very specific needs, but i am willing to jank this to make it work. I am trying to use all of my powersupplies without having to buy, as you say, expensive work arounds or batteries that cost... lets be honest much more than they are worth "coughing in Millwaukee". I do a lot of filming and working in a place without lights and i need to keep power to all units. I have issues with keeping lights on and i struggle to find a solution, since i am not a rich man, so i try to find things that work in the way you have. Do you have any advice in how to construct a multi powerbank board into something that can deliver variable voltage you want on the other end. Im trying to see if i can power my survaillance system over longer periods of time with several powerbanks instead of 1 extremely expensive one.

thank you for reading my word vomit!

Cool! Thx.

This was super useful!

Usb c is a weak shitty easil damaged connector.

Very useful info. I have an AC adapter that came with a Lenovo X1 Thinkpad. It had a USB C plug which was damaged (squashed). It has an output range of 20v, 15v, 12v, 9v and 5v. Would I need to replace with a PD capable plug or is the PD functionality within the charger. Incidentally the supply cable is only 3 wires (Black white and Blue)

👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Brilliant !

Not all power banks are capable of enough amps. I had a device that needed a specific combo, and it took some times to find a power bank that could drive it. Also, that device had a DC connector. Now THAT is where your video could come in handy. Lets say I had a power bank that was able to drive the device, but it had no DC port…

Amazing

wow! thanks man. earned my sub

Me likey

Very interesting and clear solution. The only downside for photographer often you have more than 2 units that need power. Cant fint a good USB-C power spliter / hub that would fit the camera like 4-5 USB-c very smal

For a person with absolutely no knowledge of electrical engineering, what are some things/concepts to look out for before working with these to ensure minimal risk to the devices and general safety?

Thanks for sharing this video and information. 👍

i believe there are 3 standards for PD and version 2 and 3 do not have 12V as it wasn't commonly used.

See i like this though i think my laptop would not work as it says 19V 6.32A and then right after says 120w on the charger so im not sure this is going to work for me.

I have decorative light globes that take three AAAs. I would love some guidance to convert these to a power bank or a adapter. Anybody out there that can help me?

Wow, this would make my Edelkrone slider MUCH more usable!

can you power monitors with that? or are they too much?

You remind me a lot of my Nephew, he also is a computer expert.

Brillante!

This video is beautifully concise.

Make sure your cable is a fast charge cable. Not all USBC cables are up for fast charging

What a great video Zibartas! Thanks for the effort, time, and diligence you took to create this. I'm building a project and need portable power. :D

Very informative, exactly what I needed to know, much appreciated!

诱骗器😂

This is fantastic! I had the same idea and a Google search brought me to this video. I want to power my LiPo charger with USB-C this way. My issue is with safety. 3D printed materials are not to code for such applications, so what would be a good way to house the small board? Heat shrink and then 3D printed housing, as shown? Adding a flame retardant?

i see that you can choose Trigger Boards of different voltages, but what about amperage?

Is this bidirectional

This is Awsome thanks! Heading to check the channel out right now!

I have a question for you that I think you could help me with, and it would earn you a sub! I have an old xmod rc car (gen 1 skyline) that I have converted to a 2s lipo setup. My setup is basically 2) lipo 112245 3.7v cells in series, connected to a 2s balance charging protection module, and than I have a small dc to dc buck converter connected to the output to control the voltage to the car. I was originally going to supply the 9v with a usb-c trigger board capable of 5v, 9v, 12v, 15v and 20v. I connected the trigger board to the input on my battery charger pcb after confirming it makes the desired 9v with my multimeter however I think its reverting to 5v when connected because the batterys never charged! Its possible it looked like less than the 9v because it was charging but I had more voltage in the batterys when I started than I did after like 4 hours. I know the car is wired right because it all works fine if I use my dc bench power supply to charge it. Am I missing something here? I am thinking its just defaulting to the 5v but I dont fully understand the usb protocols. Thanks for any suggestions you might have!

Dude!!! Holy cow man!!!! I was just looking into something like this literally hours ago to power a thermal printer. It requires EXACTLY 20v at 3.4amps. The only charger that I had was 19.5 and wouldn’t work. Thanks my friend!!! 👍🏼

Oh, man.... this is a game changer. Thanks for the tutorial.

Okay, but is it possible to install the PD board inside the device, in place of the old port? I imagine it would be a bit more complicated, but it has to be doable, right?

Awesome video, very good explanation of the concepts.. May I also suggest perhaps, 1 size up in shirt sizing? I think your workouts are making you out grow what you have on. hehe. I saw in one of the videos, you have used woven cable sleeving, have you tried the type that has the cable feed horn that zips the shielded cables into place. I was thinking about getting some of that, but wasn't sure how good it was.

Thank you for the awesome tip and tutorial.

Wonder if I can do this to some old Xbox controllers sitting around

get a proper heat gun for heat shrink!! using open flames for it is very suboptimal (speaking from experience)

I'm making a power bank and want 1 USB to charge and power the bank the board bms board I have is a 4s bms board which means I need to input 16.8 volts to have the cells all charge all the way is there a way to do this?

I
is it possible tu use this technique with a servo ?
And if it is possible can you explain to me how please ?

Thanks again for th great info