How Should You Break In A Diesel Engine?

Well what o want to know is.. are you talking about pick up motor. Or 18wheeler motor..
Because I am confused about. The rpm you called out is for small trucks not big Riggs.
1500.. rpm hundreds are small motors. Big Riggs are thousands.. so which is it

Do you possibly know if a DT12 Auto/Newer Freightliner Transmission can be mated to a Pre emissions 12.7L Detroit 60 Series engine?

Concise

I also like to put 2 stroke oil in the tank every fill up for the first 25k. After that I tone it back, but alwasy put it in my tank. I have an older 6.6 Ford diesel, and a lot of older Ford guys in my area do the same, and told me about this.

I admired you til the day I seen this video wrong mechanic if he says you have to break in the engine if the engine is built correctly there he is no break in the engine is either absolutely correct or wrong however you do have to seat the Rings if I was you I take this video down it hurts your character unless this is who you are like most caterpillar mechanic that cut corner

exelente video

Did a Cat/Mitsubishi engine last yr and they wanted break in to be in 4 steps 25,50,75,100 percent load/time with cooling periods between steps

So even though I was a OO and ran a few trucks over my career, for a long time (18 years) I was in marine engineering. Breaking in marine engines is easy. They are always loaded, so it's just vary the RPM :-)

I just got my C-15 built and put the new rerate in with the IVA deleted. Hooked it to a 35 ton load of wood and let her rip! Shes ripping too🔥💯

My newly overhauled engine has oil coming out exhaust manifold....is this normal during breaking process

Would you say the principle of properly loading the engine applies to gasoline engines as well? Proportionally normal loading for said engine, that is. Thanks.

Well josh I’d think it would be harmful to the pistons and cause scuffing of the pistons and cylinders. Also 1.800 rpm is pushing it Towards red line or over revving it which we all know is bad.

He is talking about 200 205 temp and i freak out when mine hit 190 i own a cat 3406 and i have always been told temp is the death of the cat

people are ballsy for making a video when they are not properly schooled on Diesel engines!!!!!!

Which method would be good to get in contact with you

Does this apply to 3/4 & 1 ton 6.7L Cummins vehicles or just semis?

Christ, I feel kinda spoiled doing rings on Honda 3.5ltrs.

re-build grease… what’s that ;)

I've run small engines on atvs wide open for breakin

Ok so I’m getting a 2022 ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. Am I going to have to go to a dyno? And what break in procedures should I fallow

How high should I run my rpm with a 45k pound load?

I start it up and go full throttle and load for 2 hours if nothing breaks it is broke in.

Drive it like you granny !😂🤣

I did a platinum rebuilt by Cat on my truck and they never told me this, i don’t even think it says on the paperwork that i got from them! Now i have low oil pressure, lots of blow by check engine light and diesel in oil! I took it back, they said they will check it out, i have 2.5 yrs warranty so hopefully they’ll get it done soon.

Good video. Wish we all had dynos.

Does anyone know how to break in new truck? I agree with this video completely, but how do you load the engine with new diffs when new ring sets aren't supposed to see much load on break in?

Can someone please clarify what he means by load? Is it just different RPM or an actual trailer. Because dyno was just different RPM

I’m picking up a truck in Kentucky in about a month and driving it back to CT. How do you guys recommending breaking it in during the trip?

What temperature should a 375hp marine 3208 run with 190° thermostat? My port motor runs Around 200°

Great video. Thank you.

I loose 1liter of oil after last service 1000 km I don't see oil on garage floor mechanic say it might leak through turbo

So replace the entire injector or just the o rings? I have seen this on gas engines too but what do

Thank you

Wow

I was told to drive it like you stole it

Like slam your hand in the door ,take it out on the truck!!!!

Where are you located

The only recommendation I would make, is to change the oil and filter(s) immediately after the dynamometer session, before delivering to the customer. Those initial oil changes are as, or more critical than the actual break-in procedure.

Hello,

I have a 2005 Renault Laguna 2 1.9 Dci (F9Q 750) (120 HP) that have been rebuilt on Feb 11. Everything has been renewed with new ones except crankshaft, camshaft and piston rods. The reason of rebuilding it was burning oil (350ml / 1000km and blue smoke especially on cold) and high blowby at idle on oil cap. The cylinders has been bored by 0.5mm and new oversized pistons inserted. The car runs fine without any leaks, without any smoke at operating temperature and it's powerful now. Still has a little bit of blowby smoke on pcv valve at idle at operating temperature but i hope it'll be gone when break-in procedure is finished.

My concern is, the service put a factory suggested Elf Evol 900 SXR 5W40 "Fully Synthetic" oil as initial oil and then they tested the car without my approval. They even said they redlined it on highway and went to 170 kmh which is contrary to break-in period and initial break-in hours. I researched about the break-in oil and break-in procedures and learned a few things but it was too late to tell them to service. They already done this stage. They didn't know about break-in oil anyway and said "use the oil which is recommended by factory as we did it like this". When i asked them about break-in procedure, they said drive it like you want it, it won't matter...

Since rebuilt, i've driven the car for 300 kilometers in 7 days and following the break-in procedures. Not lugging it, not overreving it, not passing 3000 rpm and avoiding full throttle sudden accelerations. I've been avoiding idling it for extended time. I've been using the RPM band widely as much as i can to help seating the rings to walls. In 3rd gear, accelerating smoothly from 2000 to 2800ish rpms then letting the foot off the gas and it drops slowly to 2000 again and repeating it on different gears when driving. Not driving it like a cruise control on same RPM.

My question is, should it break in like this with fully synthetic oil which is on the car for 260 kilometers? Should i stay with the synthetic oil inside until i reach 800kms and change it or should i change the oil and oil filter to mineral oil like Castrol GTX Essential 15W40 etc. immediately? I fear to glaze the cylinder walls or rings and can't successfully do the break-in procedure with the synthetic oil inside. I fear to damage the healthy turbo or other components with mineral oil too but the turbo repair is much more cheaper than an engine job which i paid significant amount of money. Is it too late for switching to mineral oil? Are my cylinders have been already glazed and rings wont seat as i fear this to happen? How should i test that?

What do you recommend in a situation like this? I was planning to do the first oil change when i reach 800kms after rebuild, then the second at 1300km and the 3rd at 4000km. I just want the engine to have a healthy break-in procedure and have a long life and decent performance. The money spent on oils and oil changes is not that much important. I want to drive this car healthy for 3-4 years, equals to 30.000 or 40.000 kilometers with my recent driving hours. I bought the car at August 2020 and have been fixing the problems caused by previous owner, sadly. I’m waiting for your advice, thank you for reading this and thanks for helping.

*round *piston ring Always good insight guy knows his 💩 Except I would never turn an engine off that's not fully to operating temperature, new or old.

With the 10-24 litre marine engines we do once the engine is up n running we tie the vessel to the wharf, drop into gear once up to temp and pretty much try to pull the wharf down. Running at just below max rpm for anything up to 6 hours or longer.

I just got my engine rebuild, how what's the best way to break it inn? Can I I run my truck with 45,000 ponds and for 750 miles round trip or should I just wait running it that much until it breaks.

Any your no WA

I drove from semi's for 42 years, and I always worked them without overheating them. The last I owned had over 1.26 million miles when I sold it. The next guy got a year out of before he rebuilt the 3406 cat 425 air to air.

You are right but also wrong Please are you Caterpillar certified because we brake our in on the dyno

If any engine is being broken in on a dyno at full load and the outside temp is high, then have someone spray the radiator with a garden hose. Unhook all wires going to the alternator because if the fan is running it's going to blow water all over it and short it out. Also tape the end of the heavy power wire and the field wire plug to keep water off both. Most semi's are going to have a switch where it's easy to shut the fan off so that wouldn't be necessary. Also use a battery charger set to enough amps to keep the voltage between 13 - 14.5 volts if it's not handy to shut the fan off. The best time to break in an engine like a semi on a chassis dyno would be in the winter in 0 degree temps. Just need several freeze plug block heaters to preheat the block or use space heaters to preheat the engine and then open up the shop doors to get the dyno area cold after the engine is started. It would be difficult to convince someone to stand at the front of a truck for 6-10 hours spraying down the radiator if it's hot out. Or a bracket could be rigged up to hold the hose and nozzle in the correct position with the nozzle set on a fan pattern to hit the entire radiator. If it's not possible to shut the fan off, then it is mandatory to unhook the alternator as described previously and also not shock the exhaust manifold and turbo that are going to glowing orange with water being blown over the engine by the fan. Air cooled piston aircraft engines have that problem because if a plane is going 200mph into a rain cloud it can cause shock cooling . Heavy amounts of rain and hail can cause turbine engines to flame out. Course the plane can glide out of the rain and restart the engines once past the heavy rain. And turbine engines on big commercial jets are made with very expensive alloys that can take shock cooling a lot better than a typical exhaust manifold and turbo on a land based machine.

Like your hat need 2 of them

Awesome video! I always learn something when I watch this channel.
So here's a question... How do you break in an engine without a dyno? I am currently having a CAT MXS inframe done and although the shop is exceptionally reputable, they do not have a dyno. Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated.

Hey John, quick question what would you say the first oil change should be on a new rebuild 3126?

I love your videos. Very clear cut information that can be used in exponentially unknown situations. Thanks big guy and keep your stick on the ice

Good video thanks 👍👍👍