1:11 VForce 3 vs VForce 4R. Moto Tassinari reeds on a yamaha YZ125 @ Croom & 74MX

Great review Like always And didn't get Vaccinated Awesome video brother

Like the vids don’t enjoy the music keep it up rather here the bike

Thank you for you work, in the realm of details this helps the purchaser. You should be compensated from the
manufacturer as no one really knows any real details, until now with YOU

the GYTR kit is a Euro kit , isn't it ? i didn't think you could get it in the US and have to order from europe or australia. being so, and being the $ is a new model , and a US brand. that may be the reason for the V 3 being offered in the GYTR kit , vs the 4. id not go by that as a gauge of their pick without speaking to them . id not be surprised if they just use that picture, but provide a 4 at this point . theres go to the a reason yamaha is using them from the oem . id think the 3 would be cheaper being the " old " model . id also not be surprised if the difference from 3 to 4 may call for some jetting changes .

Thx for the test. Now I don't have to feel bad missing out on power not running the V3. When talking to the Dutch Yamaha guy responsible for the kit he said it made more power with the V3 on the dyno, but I trust your "but dyno" enough not to feel that I'm sacrificing much (or anything) going for the durability of the V4. Might have to try the Boyesen though to see if the bottom gain is worth a little top (doubt it, but you must try 🙂)

Not on the videos topic but how is dawn dish soap and tide Laundry detergent safe on dirt bikes but not cars ??

I have not torn my YZ top end down yet, (only about 10 hours on it), but I can't believe Yamaha blocked off the reed transfer port with the reed stop plate.
No wonder why my 2019 YZ250 is the slowest 250 I have ever had. I know how to fix that. :)
Also, it clearance permits, remove the spacer between the reed valve and the cylinder. You should gain a good boost in the mid range. I used to add a spacer those out about 5mm to tame a engine down a bit. I think it is removable, but i still have to ride test mine.

You can have a cylinder reed with the reed boost port all the way into the cases also. If the reed tips are in the way, that is an obstruction of course, but I turn 46cc piston port engines to cylinder reed valve engines, (the reed petals are not in the way fro those builds), so I feed the added port, (I mill one in the cylinder) with a window in the piston, and the tunnel from the cases, (like the rest of the ports are feed).

You are probably right about the reed stop on the V-4 for not being offered for the 250. But I know the reed stops don't have to be that long, (the reeds don't open that much), or could be designed to not cover that port tunnel.

If you ride your bike enough and you pay attention to how your bike runs, and know the riding area like the back of your hand, you get a real good idea of where the power is and how much it is, (more or less).
Back when I raced a bit, (and practiced a lot), with my 1988 CR250. I remember not being able to hear my bike before the gate dropped, yet I still knew exactly where the best power was for a great start. You can tell 1hp if you are in tune with your bike. It takes seat time, paying attention to your bike, knowing the stuff you are riding on, and the nay-sayers would get there too. :)

It probably would be a better higher rpm reed for the 250 too. They keep trying to keep up with 4-stroeks on fast 4-stroke tracks, and it ain't gonna happen (sans equal displacement.).
I am gonna be in the trails, and judging a bit from this vid, I made the right choice.
Wait,---it was the only choice for the 250 (Sans Boyesen). :) I bet they are just selling out the 125 V-3 with the Gytr kits to get rid of the last remaining. If your not getting the kit, just a reed,---you would buy the V-4 and they know it.

The V-force reeds have always been a better lower rpm/ mid range reed. It was the double petal design that made that happen. I am sure the V-3 is better than stock for low to mid-range. Does Boyesen still make the "Rad Valve", (included a entire investment cast aluminum intake.),? If mid into big top end power is what you want, (for a track, what you have to have, and you still did not pass that 4-stroke. lol), you may find that the Rad Valve offers even more mid and high top.

If you did mods for more high rpm power, the v-3 was the wrong choice. For wide open tracks, the reed stops control the petals better, and it was 10% bigger. Great for wide open. Not sure if the Rad valve is better, (call them for the best high rpm set up). But for anything else other than a wide open 4-stroke MX track, on a stock bike or a bike with more mid range mods, the V-3 I am sure, is on top for the YZ250, (and 125 if trail riding.). No offense, but IMO, it may have been an injustice to the V-3, when it is really made for lower rpm torque, and a good fit anywhere off of a 4-stroke MX track. The only Bike racing that is close to MX today as far as what is needed from the motor is Desert racing, and MX used to be closer to hare scrambles. :) Come on man. When is the last time you squared off a corner? :)

a prefer vforce 4r because there is a layer of rubber to make it durable

i found v3 to be awfull. put the stock ones back on. v3 caused this nasty bog at high revs/part throttle . i pulled them out after 15hrs, noticed cage was distorted and reeds bent(apparently this is a feature;)

Awesome information thank you, I live near the new 74mx and motobros, but would love to know where you can do trail riding in this area! Capecoral/ punta gorda

Dunno man, looked like it sounded and looked faster on the 3’s for some reason. But you know the bike and was riding so appreciate your feedback on this one!

YZ250 Model nbr V4X07EM V-Force VForce 4X Reed Valve System

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