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Such good info here. 👍
ОтветитьI'd argue the primary reason to extend is to protect your pro. New trad leaders coming from gym or outdoor sport should really pay attention to walking pro and zippering potential. Trad pro doesn't always stay put like bolts, especially directional passive pro. One of my early leads, I zippered out my pro because I hadn't been exposed to this concept, but definitely learned a lesson. My position is that unless it's a vertical splitter crack, it ought to be extended by default. Rope drag is still super important on longer leads, but insulating your pro from the rope comes first. Thanks for your video 👍🤠.
ОтветитьGreat stuff - totally agree on the alpine draws; carry plenty of those! I like the idea of tri cams but have seen lots of failures on videos. I have never owned any or climbed with them. I climb Northern Cali and have never seen them up here but they look so cool for those horizontal cracks! I have some baby Metolius ultralight cams for those and a great set of Dragons for the bigger stuff.
The scariest part of the whole deal for me is trusting the gear. I like to practice falls with cams or nuts placed just above a sport bolt and take a nice little whipper to inspire confidence but I will be honest, hanging on a trad anchor a few hundred feet up still feels sketchy!
I want the second to hurry up so I can get off of that thing...
Awesome video, I'm glad I found this channel out. One thing I'd mention though is when talking about alpine draws "grey on gear" is something to remember
ОтветитьStarted off with 7 cams .5-3 a couple duplicates and a yellow alien, 7 nuts and 7 hexes. Had 12 draws, 2 cordelettes, 6 slings. First trad lead was high E. Progressed a lot since then.
ОтветитьThat belt buckle though....
ОтветитьWhy/when is a clove hitch preferable to an alpine loop? ETA: "Friend" is actually the original name for cam devices.
Ответитьworth to mention. wild country cams had colour scheme changed 3 times. if you would buy older cams and newer cams, you will find that colours do not follow any scheme and you can end with 3x purple, all in a different size, even if from one manufacturer
ОтветитьWhat diameter cord you go for on your cordlette?
ОтветитьUh uh um
ОтветитьI understand your comment about seeing people with more gear than you think is necessary for that route however some people (like myself) feel more secure placing more pieces and moving more slowly than your average climber. Even if that grade is well with in my abilities i still perfer and enjoy placing more pro. great videos and info just wanted to toss in my 2 cents, also do you have affiliate links where spending money on gear can support your channel, you have alot of informative content that i would like to support financially
Ответитьis that belt buckle part of the rack ?
ОтветитьMassive fking belt buckle is clearly the best piece. Gotta make sure you've got something sharp and metal near your member when you fall so that you don't accidentally produce trad babies
ОтветитьBlind people listening:
"This is what my set of nuts looks like"
re cams, you could easily recolor another brand to match what is used in callouts.
Ответить7 lockers. Woah.
ОтветитьAwesome stuff, like for the algorithm
ОтветитьYour videos are ace - super informative! I've been trad climbing for a while but find it really interesting seeing how the standard rack varies in different parts of the world! In the UK, we don't have many parallel cracks :(, so the standard rack has far fewer cams (lots of my mates only climb with 3-4, I use 6 personally 0.5-3), but then a double set of nuts, often with offsets and micro nuts to supplement that! Keep making the great content!
ОтветитьDo both the leader and belayer bring a grigri?
ОтветитьGot a big ol belt buckle on that harness
ОтветитьTennessee? 🤠
ОтветитьNo hexes? How sad. And however did we manage to climb and live to tell about it without locking 'biners in the 70s?
Ответитьgreat for me as I have just been learning more about trad and the equipment necessary. This was really helpful thank you.
ОтветитьI don't even want to climb and I can't stop watching these videos. This was a really good explanation.
ОтветитьThis helps me
Ответитьam I the only idiot who adjusts his setup for each route? am I doing something wrong?
Ответитьheavy on nuts
ОтветитьNice video man, very useful tips and clearly explaned, good job!
Ответитьlook at that belt buckle!!!
Ответитьnice belt
Ответитьwhenever hes says "im now gonna show you my rack" i laugh so much
ОтветитьAwesome video! Thanks for sharing this knowledge for us beginners
ОтветитьDid my first multi pitch trad lead the other day! I just have a singles rack but I made it work. Definitely took too many lockers lol.
ОтветитьThat belt plate!
ОтветитьLove it
Ответитьhow much about does a starter trad rack kost? am i looking at like a couple 100 or easily 1000?
ОтветитьThank you!
ОтветитьJust rack up with 15 link cams, you need 15 because they're one time use only.
ОтветитьGates out 👏😤😂
ОтветитьDo you keep on full set of cams on each side of your harness? Or do you split them with some type of system like big on some side and small on the other?
Ответить😂first I would be interested in the price tag of that whole rack
ОтветитьThis is extremely helpful. Your pacing of the information, the organized way you presented the info, and you showing the camera close up explanations were all well done. Outstanding. Thanks.
ОтветитьHi, why do you opt for a nylon sling as a rappel extension instead dyneema?
ОтветитьHow to build a rack these days? Try getting rich first.
ОтветитьThe reason Wild Country calls them "Friends" is because of the inventor of cams, Ray Jardine.
Ray Jardine is an American engineer who invented cams and was keeping them secret as he was refining them. His climbing partners really liked them so when they would go climbing with Jardine his friends would ask if he was bringing any of his "friends" along, a code word for the cams.
If my memory is correct, he gave the first license to manufacture cams to Wild Country, and they were initially marketed as "Friends."
Thanks for the video....I noticed you carry no quick draws.....I am a total beginner so I just wanted to know why....I thot these were the most basic piece of equipment.....would appreciate your input.....thanks a million
ОтветитьVery useful. Thanks.
Ответить5 hexes and a bunch of wires. 2, 3 each smaller wires. Plus a 3 friend.
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