How-To Rebuild Top End Chevy 350 Small Block Engine Motorz #67

You're supposed to use thread sealer on the head bolts when your using a factor chevy block not oil. If you don't you're going to have an oil pan full of coolant as well as a coolant leak on every head bolt.
The only block I know of that doesn't require thread sealant is made by DART and that's because the head bolt holes are blind and aren't open to the water jacket.

head bolts are 5/8

do you need a gasket for the oil pump or no???

love the show thanks! keep up the awsum work

No thread sealant on the head bolts, no instructions on how to insert the lifters, i still have no idea how you got that tape out from underneath the intake and why wouldnt you go with roller rockers? besides all that you guys are making a big deal over how he put the cam in, like come on thats how you put a cam in. "Gently" pretty much just means dont snap that bitch in half when your putting it in the block.

lol, im gonna say they left the engine in the upright position for the camera and videos purpose. But, to make it easier to put the heads on, rotate your engine stand to where your head can lay flat down. It will make it way easy, if you gotta do it by yourself. Also, to keep the head gasket from moving, it wont hurt to put JUST A LITTLE rtv in two of the corners to keep it stuck.

wet bolts actually give a false torque unless your manual specifies to lubricate them.

A chevy 327 has more HP than A 350 show how too rebuild them OK!!!!!!!!!

To who ever reads this comment never use a universal socket joint to torque down a bolt. The reason being it doesn't give you a precise torque.

Hi, I notice you did not install a cam button with the roller cam did you not need a cam button?

Why did he pound on the low timing chain gear? That mess up your end play and f up your bearing. They have a tool that presses it on with no damage to your bottom end. And the last time I work on my 350 the intake torques down to 30 lbs.

Good vid but the music sux.

I mean, I know it's a 2 bolt main 350, but iron heads and head bolts instead of studs, come on man, you can fenagle some better sponsored stuff

Fun fact: Some camshafts sold by Crower/Lunati and a few others are actually reboxed white box camshafts made by Elgin. Study the cam specs and you can purchase the same cam from Elgin at a little over half the price.

Pro tip, lube the camshaft as you insert, helps reduce mess.

great video. question im 17 so im stilling learning everything their is to know about engines. The crank sprocket gear, do you have to remove it if you swap the cam and put it bad to top dead center???

Correct me if I'm wrong, but did she just say a 36 mm socket for an American made motor.

Iron heads? Wtf lol

Speaking of sieze up for not installing something properly does it mean the truck can break down stranding the driver.

All that work & upgrades & then use stock style rocker arms ???

people still use steel heads?

I always torque in 3 steps.......such as 70 ft. Lbs. on the head bolts would get a 40.....55.....then the final 70. When I lived in Indy . Steve Schmidt Racing engines did all of my engine machine work. Awesome race shop awesome engine work At the time in the late 90's SSRE was. Building A lot of engines for NHRA pro stock. Not sure if he still does. I remember when I took my block in for machine work and it was all clean with the inside and outside painted and the block machinist who did the machining asked if my engine was a raw casting and I said no.....I bead blasted it in my large blast cabinet. I remember the block machinist commenting....... WOW.....I have never seen a seasoned block come in that clean before.....LOL.....I would tape and plug any surfaces I didn't want blasted and go at it.Give a rinse in the parts washer using mineral spirits engine brush and blow out it all the holes then paint the insides of the block with Glyptol red engine enamel. It helps the enamel to adhere better then I would paint the exterior of the block with high heat engine enamel. No issues whatsoever the paint always adhered well and looked fresh and new. No peeling.... Whenever I would get my engines back from the machine shop they were pretty much already to go with assembly. All cleaning deburring painting taken care f ahead f time. I always got the non chemical,rinse after machine work just to remove machining debris. I always washed the block a couple times with the pressure washer and Tide powder soap and have the oil squirt can ready to prevent rusting the freshly machined surfaces after the block and passages are air compressed blown dry. Engine supplies from Goodson always helped in my engine rebuilding. I usually shot blasted the crank and rods. Any type of blasting takes a meticulous cleaning with every bore brushed, rinsed and then brushed and rinsed again. ARP racing studs for the crank and heads on any performance engine.....ALWAYS.....I often used Total Seal piston rings along with TRW moly rings....I had no issues......Get a degree wheel and degree in the cam....it is worth it....if you are an engine builder you know the scoop......if not.....get a good engine rebuild book and if you are mechanically inclined you can learn it. I built an engine testing stand and ran my engines before they were put in the vehicle. Helped with tuning and to check for any issues. To me engine building was a hobby..... I always enjoyed it. Sometimes the best option now a days is to just purchase a crate engine. Ready to go as far as the block machining and depending on a short or long block kit the hard meticulous precision machining work has already been done for you. ......Have Fun.

too bad sears bit the dust

wasnt this channel called MotorZ?

Way too much oil on the head bolts. The oil will be pooled up in the bottom on the threaded hole in the block, which you will be fighting when you are torquing the bolts causing a false reading on your torque wrench. Instead, lay all the bolts out on a clean shop towel. Take a small oil can and run a small bead of oil down the center length of the bolt. Let the bolts sit for a few minutes so the oil will drain off and be absorbed into the towel. You will be left with a very light coating on the threads, which is exactly what you want. I've literally down this to 100's of head bolts.

Does anybody know if all 94 silverados 350 tbi engine , have roller or flat tappet camshaft?

I thought you are supposed to torque head bolts in 3 different number until you reach the final torque

What does PHA mean

I went to buy some Craftsman tools at my local Sears...............hmmm, it's gone. Looked on line, .............hmmn, it's gone.
I know they were bought out, and closed, but dont understand what happened to Sears. They were my go to for many things, all my life. Its really sad that it went under!! Now who handles my lifetimes Craftsman warranty?

Is the process basically the same for a 98 5.7 vortec

I noticed you didn't mention that you had to turn the crank 360° to get your time and dots at 12 that would be number one top dead center compression stroke

You are suppose to use thread sealer on thru holes for most production sbc blocks. Bowtie blocks and aftermarket blocks have whats called blind holes that dont require thread sealant and can be assembled with oil or arp molley coat. The use of oil with thru holes will leak into the engine. It also hepls to o-ring the head bolts as a second seal.

What's the part number for the cam?

When he says torque to foot pounds twice is he loosening them in between?

You shouldn't torque your first bolt to desired torque. You do the sequence several times increasing torque each time.

This video series helped me stick my first 350 together in high-school about 6 years ago. Thank yall so much once again!!

If you’re gonna do anything for performance, you might as well get a set of roller rockers too, every little bit helps

Nice serie of Chevy 350 small block

I bought a stage 3 camshaft kit for a SBC 5.7 vortec engine, the kit came with the camschaft lifters, gear and timing chain, I put the stage 3 cam, the gear and the timing chain, but I did not put the new lifters that came I put the stock ones in the kit, now when I drive my truck it doesn't take off, I press the throttle and it almost doesn't run, the engine sounds as if I hadn't put anything on it, my question is the following: does the engine of my truck work? So why didn't I put the new lifters on it?

Question: Many years ago I built a lot of engines and we always put thread sealer on the threads of the head bolts, especially the ones in the water jackets. It also would act like a lubricant for proper torque on the heads. Is this something new that you don’t need to do that, just dip them in motor oil will take care of it.

Word to the wise. Leaving that much oil on a head bolt WILL throw off your torque, and that much oil will throw it off a lot. That isn't opinion that is fact. Let the excess drip off before you put them in when putting in any fastener that requires lubrication during assembly.

Crazy that I just found this acc thanks for the info I’m thinking about getting an edle brock top end kit with a cam but I’m just so damn nervous imma fuck it up

2023 still watching it

Watching this while working on my small block

Thx 4 explaining the Key Ways 🎉

Dot dot is not top dead center for number one it’s top that center for number six
And you’re supposed to put sealer on the head bolts before you put them in not just oil