Dump Truck Repair: Clutch, Rear Main & Transmission Seals

A little tip to align the splines, put the tranny in high gear so you can turn the tail shaft by hand while pushing it in. I used to change clutch before the engine could cool off.
Hope this helps ya in the future.

Man. Good Job. :)

Jon, I must say I like the way you work. You did a great job on replacing the clutch and bearings etc. Your attention to detail and the way you strive for perfection is very admirable. I would trust you to work on any vehicle or machine before any mechanic.

This video was AI trash 😢.

Thanks for sharing this video, Jon. I've watched it before, but apparently I skipped over part 1 (where you could have been squished by that transmission removal. So, after just watching that, I'm watching this again. Ongoing comments below.
• Ah yes, the origin of the "vice grips slide hammer". I had forgotten about that. Fantastic! 🙂
• "Sometimes I hate seals." Those picture add-ins. LOL!
• Yay! The bearing AND the collar! Score!
• "Never hit the balls." --Jon of Farmcraft101, 2022. 🤣

I'm glad to see you got the dump truck transmission taken care of, and that it drives better. Well done. I thoroughly enjoyed the adventure. 👍

Love the permanent hose attached to the throwout bearing. The manual trannies of the post war cars repeatedly failed as in those hilly areas of the U.S.short-lived grease caused excessive wear--premature failure mode--due to people holding the clutch pedal depressed. Simple preventative measure was to set the parking brake, shift into neutral then reverse the process to start up on a hill. Slowly engage the clutch then release the brake.

See if the nut doesn't fit that's the first one you need to put on 👋😃

Hey Mervink, I really like your new slide hammer. I think the weight needs a bit more massive and it will be great. I think you could find a typical Faffner bearing, modify it to fit this yoke where it is spun and trashed. Do a bit of machining and have several throw out bearings ready to go. The larger the ball bearings the better. Sleeve the cast iron and get the dimensions with the lathe. The rear main seal needs the best gasket locking material made.

That tool is not vice grips! There are adjustable locking pliers! Vice grips are a brand not a tool! Learn your tools!

Isn't the flywheel mounted in a pre-set position? It is balanced together with the crankshaft, no?

As always guy's your awesome!!!😊😊😊

The issue with working under the lift. The lift itself is rated and has safety locks in place. We all agree with this. Stabilizer jacks are used on either end of the vehicle to keep the vehicle from rocking and falling forward or backwards. The close lifting points can allow this to happen, especially when wrenching outside of the contact box. It's quite common with inept or inexperienced hands. This should not be construed to imply that you would do this, I just get what the industry guys are saying.

You only need the clutch to go in reverse, and to start going forward in your low gear. Speed shift the rest of your gear up and gear down sequences. When you gear up, pressure the gear shifter in the next gear up slot while letting the rpms come down until the shifter slips into gear. When you gear down, shift the shifter to the next lowest gear, increase your rpms until the shifter slips into gear, let up on the gas petal to allow the engine to slow your speed, using the brake when necessary to slow down enough to catch the next lower gear. You save thousands of hours and miles on clutch wear.

Not sure if it’s been mentioned, but leave the box in gear, then when you turn the output at the rear, the input turns at the front (from what I remember). Saves fishing around the bell housing.
Fighting metal to save yourself and save the metal is a hell of a workout, leaves you exhausted like few other things. Glad you were up to the fight!!

i love your videos

oh hey, the mystery metal you found in the clutch, maybe it was that tag? its a metal tag right?

TONS of respect to that clutch company for making the 40 something year old part for you. I hope I have one of their clutches in my truck based on that kind of customer service.

Great video. If you granny in gear before you take it out, you can turn the u-joint yoke to line up the splines.

Now that's a nice new, high-quality JOHN-JACK. You and your JOHN-JACK are hired.
Always a pleasure watching real masters at work. Try watching a so-called mechanic working on your car in their shop. Awe-awe, not going to happen. They don't like you watching them NOT fix your car or breaking something else. Me, I insist on watching everything and asking questions like WHY are you doing that? A good and honest mechanic will have no problem with you watching or asking questions. That's how you tell the good ones from the shills. If I wanted something fixed, John would be the first person I ask, and I would not need to watch to know the job was done well.

should there be a pin to line the bell housing and engine up. On car trans the bell housing has a pin which super lines the trans to the engine

Inspirational, Genuine ...are the words that come to mind. Thanks, fella, i am not repairing farm machinery, but this kind of inspiration translates well 🥰😀

bronze works just fine

In the 50s we had a clutch and brake rebuilder, liked they do in India now. Common parts could be exchanged for old rebuilt or rebuild yours while you wait.

Copy the blue tag part number, you may outlive the new clutch.

Is a cdl needed to operate this truck?

John,
I just love your videos. Especially the way you just dive in and aren’t afraid to tackle any problem. A couple comments regarding clutch plate and transmission installations. You can make a clutch disc alignment tool on your lathe with just the pilot bearing diameter and the inside diameter of the clutch plate spline. You don’t need to have a spline on the big end. Also to make the alignment of the transmission easier when installing it, you can get some long bolts and cut off the heads and then slot the ends and then screw them into the engine, so that the Holes in the transmission can slide onto the studs helping to make the alignment easier. Then use a screwdriver in the slots to remove the studs. Keep up the great work. Regards, Steve.

I tried looking before asking, but I'm just wondering what engine transmission are in that truck and what model and year ?

was that a Metric CLICK

When things are done right, things work right. Right?

I tell you I think you should change your channel from Farmcraft to Farmtech because your videos are a lot more technical than just bubblegum and bailing wire under an old shadetree. 🇺🇸👍

Had a vicegrip add-on slide hammer.

Beautiful job man !😊

I consider this one of the better ytube channels I watch simply because your mentality about fixing stuff and making it better fits mine, but your mad skills in so many areas dwarf my paultry abilities in only a couple of those areas. I learn alot from watching you though and love how you can take stuff and fabricate it and either replace or improve a part. My hat is off to you.

Look at that pretty blue tag !

Do manual transmission cars also have a grease fitting for the throw-out bearing?

What about widening footprint of wheels. When high looked like wider footprint on wheels woulld have helped stability. Nice job

If you had engaged the PTO you could have rotated the splines by hand. (Too late now I know)

your cover is missing over the hole in the bell housing.......jest sayin'.

Awesome Job!

I've watched this twice reinstalling the throwout bearing, wondering if the grease hose could have gone counter clockwise under the shaft like a spring and not had to snake to fit... just thinking, great work and patience (~39 min in video).

PS, Im watching your body work on the dodge truck at the same time as the truck transmission. One of the things my dad does in Canada is get his vehicles under coated professionally by Krown Rust annually - they even do the body pannels (inside those little rubber plugs inside the door pannels and will add holes if necessary for known problem areas)... the salt damage is stopped in its tracks...I think it would do some good for some of your winter driving vehicles - especially since you've reinvested with great work!!! Note some rubber hood moldings may deform slightly... but rust is non existent...

Would think the flywheel would need to be resurfaced. I believe that flywheel surface needs to be flat across this surface. This is why you had trouble adjusting it.

Is that the same slide hammer you're using till this day?

I have watched most of your videos....will finish them. Love your channel. Learning so much! I enjoy watching you use your metal lathe and milling machines to make parts you need.

I am surprised you have not bought a used tire changer and a balancer. I would think it would cone in very handy with all your equipment and cars

I want to humbly thank all the folks who helped me locate parts for this repair. Seriously, you guys rock. Good video? Don't forget to hit that like button. It lets me know what type of videos to focus on. If you are interested in supporting the channel, check the description, and thank you for your support! It really helps me to keep making awesome content for you guys! Side note: If you look closely at the end you might get a hint on another video coming very soon... Cheers everybody!