This Is What Happens When You Send A Big Block To The Moon!

Hey Steve, i have a question i have been asking alot and cant get a answer. I want to swap my 454 into my 3rd gen Trans Am. The only headers i can get that will allow for exhaust under the car has 1 7/8in primaries. Will those headers hurt me more than help me and would i be stupid to try and spray any amount of nitrous with that small of primaries?

Rocket racing is putting out some serious oldsmobile blocks recently, like 5000 h.p. capable, have you ever considered intake/heads for these?

Talk about a bad day, you got one bad piston, I just cracked a cylinder wall on my mope-532.🥶

Did bent valve make issue with tune and thus hurting piston?

Steve I’ve got a question . I’m building a single turbo 5.3 swap for my gxp solstice , and I’ve got a new set of Bosch 210s and they don’t have any filters or metal screen tips in them , and I’m wondering what the spray pattern is going to be like with the bottom of the injector being open and having no filter or pintle caps on them ? Am I supposed to manually add those to these injectors or are they fine without them and just supposed to run a 40micron filter before the rails ? Any advice would be appreciated Steve , love your tech and I’ve learned so much off all your videos

???? How does the tune scuff the piston on one side????

DryBot/Engine Saver, which are basically an aircraft engine dehumidifier, may be worth looking into for the guys running alky, &/or live in a rainforest.

When you weld buildup aluminum blocks and heads how do you maintain the heat treat of the filler rod and parent metal so the physical properties are there same?

Why when doing a mds delete do you have to replace the cam. Why not just replace the lifters only and turn off mds? On a 392.

Steve could that bent valve not seal and cause the tune up to be out and run lean?

On Travis's engine he had the one bad cylinder and when AA JOE DID THE VALVES HE FOUND ONE BAD ( BENT INTAKE VALVE) YOU SAID HE NEEDED TO GET MORE FEUL TO THAT CYLINDER, NOW WAS IT THE BENT VALVE THAT COULD HAVE CAUSED THE REDUCED FEUL AND CAUSED THE PISTON DAMAGE. WAS THAT BENT VALVE ON THE BAD PISTON YOU DID NOT SAY. BUT IF IT WAS WOULD THE BENT PISTON CAUSE THE PISTON TO BE DAMAGE ON 1 SIDE , BECAUSE WOULD IT NOT REDUCE THE FEUL?

The videos are getting better all the time. Love the info. This one was less fine details.. but great non the less. Keep em coming !!

Steve, can you do an update on sugar momma? See it there in the shop, did you buy it back?

Hey steve love the videos hey when you cut the seats and grind intake valves does that raise the tip of valve higher for spring or rocker arm?? Or do yous machin ethe valve tip down to compensate i know you said in some videos that some have harden tips or you use sewer lids that go on top cheers jack

Nearly made 500 subscribers.

Possibly build a faraday cage to mount all the dyno electronics in and cover all the cables in aluminum rfi sleeving

i only just found out, but i'm glad to know; in australia, where they hold burnout competitions, banging off of the rev limiter is frowned upon. it's supposed to be about control.

Would like to see this with twin carbs up top and see what she rips for numbers ! Basically you n/a power

First, I think there's a lot of people that don't know how much reversion goes on in the exhaust as well (open headers will both suck and blow a rag in and out at idle) = throws the O2 reading way off at low rpms.
And second, I had a serious RICH condition through the mid range rpms on my bike that's a blow through OEM CV carbs (vacuum slides that open with air velocity) and after many hours trying the tune that area (on chassis dyno), I ended up making a clear cover for the plenum so I could watch what the carb-slides were doing on the dyno. Long story (180+ dyno pulls) short with ZERO success leaning the mid range, the 100% fix ended up being pressurizing the carb bowls off of a Pitot Tube that ran across the charge tube (with a hole that faces up stream) vs off of just the plenum pressure...

Steve & Kyle...Love your videos, never miss a single one, and I ALWAYS learn something. Simple request: Can you increase the volume a bit? I dont mind turning it down when there's a screamer on the dyno, but when it switches back to conversation, I have the volume turned up to 11 and i can barely hear the dialogue. Nit-pickey, I know, just my $.02.
Thanks for all the great content.

Steve I’m a little late to the video but wanted to ask was the cylinder hurt at all? I didn’t hear it mentioned. Did you even have to hone it or no? I’m just wondering

How did that piston not damage the cylinder wall? Much softer piston material?

Question, what would the side of the piston, rings, and cylinder wall look like with a cylinder extremely rich. I watch of your content.

Hey Steve you didn’t show the cylinder walls from the hole that had the hurt piston. Was it galled up ? Did you have to hone it? I know the piston has a an anodised surface finish on it and it is made of aluminium but I would expect that as a minimum the piston material would have transferred on to the bore of the cylinder and messed up the cross hatching. Don’t hold out on me buddy!

WANT A PROBLEM BUILD A FORD

Definitely a pure Michigan video. You guys in Michigan Rock? I have to say oh, I grew up in Michigan so I'm a little biased

it wasn't a cleetus meltdown for change. 😏

I'm guessing ignition noise, since the coils are electrically "nine miles" away from the engine ground plane and long flying buttress ignition wires. it looks like ignition power/control wiring and spark plug wires are intertwined/crossed/close/touching, that's never a good thing and will result in major RFI noise and direct high voltage ingress. no amount of shielding or chokes will curb that, physically separate them them as far as possible. it will get worse as the spark gap gets harder to jump and could be effected by choice of plugs/wires also making it worse.

I would say that bent valve got tagged by a piston.

I worked on that block personally. We specialize in big block ford things and that’s one of our blocks we offer at C and C and is a go to for big block ford POWWAAA

Hey Steve, can you do a segment on stoker piston speed and limitations please

Rosie's an angry Rolls! 🙌🙏🇺🇲

Ohhh snap STEVE MORRIS

In review of this video, I noticed something on the table… Is that a Pontiac head on the table behind you?

Question: is it not worth while to buff and re cold blue the surface rust from those push rods?

How about WAA Joe... Well above average Joe! Because I have never seen anyone move that fast. 😁

Thanks for the BBF dyno. I really enjoy the Ford powered stuff.

Wish I had known about the AN wrench set. I just bought a set.

6 sets of spark plugs if you run a 4 banger...

What's the yellowish colored material on the charge pipe????

Checking lash is your early warning sign that you better be paying attention love watching and learning thanks

Little late but happy Easter 🙏

Is the bent intake valve from the same cylinder as the scuffed piston? If so, is this the cause of the lean burn to scuff the piston??

Thats not a tune uo issue that's a clearance issue.

No Cylinder scuff in the Hole with the bad piston?

When you say a piston with equal scuffing on both sides is a “sizing” issue, does that mean it’s a “tolerance” issue that was overlooked or measured incorrectly before the build?

That noise issue fascinates me. Rf noises can come from unequal line resistances. How bout harmonics creating high line resistence issues

Aa/Joe, your time share was excellent! Well done! So we know what his problem is. So how do fix it?

Thanks Steve for going over my engine and that thing ran great all year with no issues. Now on the piston problem when I took the engine out of the car I found it was missing a 1/4 inch pipe plug from the intake manifold. I think it rattled out when I was in Vegas. I didn't know it was gone and then I ran it really hard at the FF so it had a good sized vacuum leak and boost leak. So that could of done the piston damage. I have exhaust temp sensors going in the car now so I could spot these issues. At the beginning of the season I was running Driven xp6 oil and that's stuff is great but it does not have as much rust inhibitor in it. When the car idles around and get all the methanol in it it has to ride all the way home and builds up the all the moisture. So when I switched to the driven GP1 all the rust stopped getting worse. Well now the engine is going back in the car and will be ready to run the crap out of it this season.