The Secret to Becoming a Big Wave Surfer! - LENNY BROS. EP. 09

Ridge and Kai share their recent adventures on the North Shore of Oahu, discussing the thrill of surfing big waves, legendary surf stories, and the importance of safety in the water. They recount their experiences during competitions, the unique culture of the North Shore, and the legendary surf coach Doug Silva, highlighting the camaraderie and humor that comes with their surfing lifestyle. In this conversation, Kai shares his experiences and insights from the world of surfing, including a dramatic collision while surfing, the importance of equipment and board shaping, and the challenges faced during competitions at Sunset Beach. He discusses the nuances of wave conditions, the significance of positioning, and the evolution of his custom boards. The conversation also touches on the historic Maalaea swells and the thrill of surfing at Mavericks, highlighting the risks and rewards of big wave surfing. Kai and Ridge also delve into the multifaceted world of big wave surfing, discussing the mental and physical toll it takes on athletes, the emerging trends in water sports, and the challenges of measuring wave heights. They also explore the pathway to becoming a big wave rider, emphasizing the importance of safety and gradual progression in the sport.

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Chapters

00:00 Adventures on the North Shore
09:01 Legendary Surf Stories
18:51 Doug Silva: The Legendary Coach
24:30 Mastering Sunset Beach: Strategy and Equipment
32:10 Lessons from the Heat: Experience and Equipment
43:10 Mavericks: The Thrill of Big Wave Surfing
56:04 Measuring the Unmeasurable: The Biggest Waves
01:04:20 Pathway to Big Wave Riding: Steps and Safety


North Shore, Oahu, surfing, big waves, Doug Silva, surf stories, windsurfing, competitions, adventure, rescue, surfing, competition, shaping, equipment, waves, Sunset Beach, Mavericks, Ma'alai, performance, injuries, big wave surfing, mental toll, water sports progression, measuring waves, big wave riding, safety in surfing, wing foiling, surfboard shaping, coaching in surfing, surfing techniques

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