Saab 9-3 No Crank No Start | ABS Control Module Repair | U0212

I had same problem with my Saab 93 V6 two years ago. I did the same as you did here in this video (re-soldering cold joins in the ABS module). I have fixed the problem. Thank you for sharing this content is very helpful for Saab owners. Regards from Mexico.

Just like new.
Will do that preventive maintenance when I get my car back.

I hear what sounds line a geiger counter coming from my center console sometimes when my electrics get funky. Any idea why?

The problem I’m having with my Saab 9-3 is most of the lights comes on and off like the ABS ,brake is it the same pin issue am having let me know thanks

thanks 😊

Outstanding video their, can see you put lots of time and effort into this….hat of to you sir!
While on the subject of abs do you know if the Saab v6 abs loom/harness in the front wheel arch are problematic? Iv a Vauxhall using the same v6 and the cable is a nightmare 😩

Hi, my ttid Saab has run the battery down a few times. There’s a loud squeal from the back of the engine after the ignition is off. This stops after 30 seconds, but I noticed it was squealing a few hours after turning the car off last week…I go to start the car next morning…battery drained completely. I charged the battery and car started fine. So to fault find, while squeal could be heard and ignition was off I pulled fuses out of fuse box next to battery. Fuse F1 30a engine management control unit was the fuse that stopped the squeal as soon as removed. Do you know if this is the fuse for the abs ecu? And could the abs unit give the ‘squeal’? Thanks

Hi cyd I noticed you added a protector lense to a reflector headlamp. I wanted to know if I supplied the parts and had them shipped to you if you could do the same for a pair of my headlamps. I live in the UK and would pay in advance. If this is something you would/could do let me know how to contact you and we could exchange details. Many thanks in advance. Your videos are awesome 👌

I thought the ECU sat on the manifold?

I've been going thru this for 2 months now 4 mechanics came to see my car and neither one knows why it won't start 😢😢😢😢

I wish you have uploaded this video 2 years ago
Am sure a lot of people have experienced this problem

I've got issue with my saab 9-3 1.9
My key want connect too the barrel after several attempts car will start I've had to park up

What do you mean by fine wire??? 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

american v6 aero abs is so damned hard to get out. So tight in there, even with the battery tray out.

I need to do exactly the same on my B234

I just did this and I can say accessing the SouthEast Torx(T15) screw was not possible by me. I made a thin aluminium 'wrench' that holds the torx bit in it after shaving half of the torx bit off. No way I was getting that last one out. THEN separating the lid from the plastic is nigh impossible without cracking the plastic lid lips. Heating didn't help, so much torque has to be applied to separate the lid that it cracked (slightly) the thin end where it joins the main base. Parts of the plastic still remained inside of the metal lid groves. At this point I wished I hadn't started this process. I did the rest, siliconed the f8ck out of it after supergluing the snapped off lid channels. Taking it back to shop for reinstall and fully expect to be buying a new/used one.

Thanks a lot for such a great videos you do!
I wish I would watch this video 2 years ago… 😊

Hi Cyd, I'm really enjoying the thoroughness of your videos on your Saab 9-3. As this was the video relating to the abs I thought it might be the most appropriate on which to contact you and hoping you might be able to help me with a brakes issue on my 2011 Saab 93x. When the engine is turned on the foot brake slowly goes to the floor. When not running I have a hard brake pedal. Have tested master cylinder by blanking off both outlets, - all Ok. Have flushed through and bled system thoroughly. There are no fault codes on the dash. As this only happens when engine on and thought the only thing connected then is the abs. If you can find the time to help me I would be very very grateful as I can find no information anywhere. Many thanks.

so a bad ABS ECU the car wont crank the motor? jesus i was thinking the problem was the CIM UNIT i will try this on my saab 93 2.2TID 2003

Hi cyd, thanks for the great video. I was wondering if you knew what code this problem would cause? I'm currently getting a U2105-00 CAN-Bus No communication with ECM (Engine Control Module) code. I will try bridging the wires you suggested in the video. Hopefully this will reveal the cause.

Thank you!

Just opened my ABS ECU - how the heck did you manage to do it so easily? I have broken mine in a few places and was wrestling with it for like 40 minutes!

Hi Cyd, love your channel. Hope you can help. Had C0035 code, wheel sensor wires corroded. Replaced the hub. Still have C0035 and all lights on dash. Traced wires back to ABS and no breaks from sensor connector to ABS. Connected back up with key on, engine running, getting 0.09 volts at sensor connector. Where do I go from here? Car runs & brakes fine.

The two videos that I have found for this repair are both for right-hand drive cars. For left-hand drive cars, the location of the master cylinder makes it pretty much impossible to get to the lower screw next to the firewall. And, even if you can, removing the module straight off the valve body is almost impossible. For these cars, it's much better to go the SAAB WIS route and remove the battery box and then drain the system and remove the ABS unit intact. It's a PITA, but with this route you won't potentially damage the unit. Once the unit has been removed, the repair that Cyd shows in the video is straightforward and sharing his work is much appreciated.

Hey mate. I currently have the U0212 fault code too, but my issues are different. My car starts every time, but once accelerating from 60mph I get a traction control and stability control failure light come on. I just need to turn the car on and off to get them to disappear. Do you think its the ABS control module too? Cheers

so it is impossible to drive during ABS module repair?

Cyd, the brake pipes on the valve block don't have enough play in them for me to get to the screws on the ECU. If I disconnect the brake pipes from the valve block do I have to bleed the brakes afterward? Mine is '06 Aero V-6

Could i try this out if diagnostics show that i have communication problems with abs module? mine symptoms are no working abs, brake warning light and speedometter stops working when error accures. sometimes it just goes back to normal like nothing happened during driving.

Hi Cyd,
If the module is swapped out does the "new" unit need to be added to the buss or is it good to go, given the module is good?

I have a 2008 aero, how do I get the bottom right screw out?

Don’t suppose you offer a repair service for these?, it’s a bit above my ability and tool box

Thanks to THIS VIDEO, another Saab saved! My 06 Aero Sportcombi 9-3 was having the canbus failures pointing to the ABS module. Jumping the two pairs of bus pins on the ABS connector resolved it for long drives during the entire week I tested it. The LHD US car engine bay is a bit tight but I managed to move the pump enough to remove the module. Followed all your directions and later put it back into the car. (Soldered ALL the connections)

Previously the bus would fail in about 10minutes consistently when warmed up from cold each morning.

Just took it for an hour of hard driving, and IT RUNS GREAT. Did not realized how much power was lost due to the poor connection. Pretty excited. 🙂 THANKS CYD!

Btw a few of my oops... tips.
-When running a knife around that silicone seal, only cut 1/8" with just one gentle pass.
-That plastic rib is easy to cut through, which makes a real mess and results in a less stable seal.
-TAKE YOUR TIME and light pry pressure on the main plastic middle and upper body area, being careful not to pry too hard on the lower section later where the plastic cover is thinner.
-Get one entire side to become loose before moving across the top and bottom, and the down the other side, because if the entire top half is loose first and you start working that lower section, IT WILL CRACK.
-Easy to crack that plastic housing at the weak points. Slow down.
-Having some sandpaper & epoxy 2 part plastic repair on hand is valuable to seal up any areas you damage by prying(like I did).
-When gluing it back together I used large rubber bands around the upper and lower sections to hold it together.
-The silicone needs several days cure time for full strength, so don't get excited and cook it in that engine bay too early. Lol.
-You have about 10min worktime on the silicone, so plan out your moves ahead of time, and keep rags handy for gummy fingers!
-I ended up cleaning and seating that o-ring cord into a layer of silicone in that plastic channel, seating the rubber evenly, adding a light skin on top of the rubber, and seated it back on the pump for a REALLY good seal, inside that 10minute window.

Hope this helps!
I will be posting a quick video about that entire troubleshooting and repair ordeal and let them know to find THIS video for a detailed explanation and visuals.

Thanks again Cyd!
Now...Off save more Saabs!

thank u brother for making this video.. much appreciated.

I am unsure how to remove it since you used another one to finish the video. I need to know how to do it without the extra part.

Thanks

Hi cyd,
My 2007 aero vert was in a garage for clutch and camchain.
They did neither, but told me the car would not start, and had pushed it outside, so I had it collected on a pickup truck.
The dreaded steering lock malfunction is showing. The lock though is in the off position, and key can be removed, but will not turn to on.
With a modified ignition module, replacing mine,
The key will turn and miu lights up.
Tech 2 says missing Ibus, Allthough flashing headlights on main beam proves Ibus working.
I have a full tank of petrol but gauge reads empty.
Icm wakes cim, which in series connects next to miu then ecm.
I suspect, after watching your video that the ecm is faulty,
I will link 1 and 13 and 2 and 14 in the ecm connector to see if it starts.
If so I will follow your instructions on resoldering the ecm.
Thanks for your great video here, and your other video on bad joints on the ecm.

Beast

Thanks indeed mate- this seems to have fixed mine, fingers crossed..👍✅😊

You leave out the most important part! How to bleed the brakes after.

Brilliant.

😮

Cyd, do you know how to clean an ECG?

Hi Cyd. In your short video you show us how to jump two pairs of pins on the ABS connector to diagnose if it is an ABS fault or not. I have a no-crank-no-start situation on my 2006 9-3 V6 and would like to try this, but the car in your videos does not look like it is the V6. However, the connector on my car is identical to the one in your short video. Do you think it is safe for me to try this procedure ? The online WIS is not very clear to me on whether all 9-3 variants use the same ABS module.

Confirmed and solved my suspicions. Started getting all kinds of weird things happening a few months ago. Dash would freeze while driving, wouldn't shift, non start off and on, etc. Finally ended up in a CIM error, no ibus communication. New module later, no problems. Thank you

What would happen if those pins were burnt in the middle of driving?

Hi Cyd - I did the repair on my 2007 93 V6 as you instructed and it worked great for about 2 months but then the problem reoccurred. Subsequent attempts to repair the module connections have not worked. I bought a used module and it did not work - and attempts to do your repair on it have not worked. However, the jump process still works and it starts immediately. Could there be another problem other than the connections in the module? Or do I need to find another module and hope it works? Any insights are appreciated!

Hi there.  I have a 2006 Aero 93, V6 2.8T with exactly the same problem as your video describes. I used the small jump wires to get it started and it runs really well, smooth with no missing, albeit no ABS. So I got the ABS module refurbished, but still no crank. I eventually succumbed and went to a Saab garage (several times) as they have Tech2. They tested by swap/testing, all missing modules showing up on Tech2 and also tried another spare ABS module, but still no crank.  They told me that in 30 years of working with Saab, they had never seen your workaround to diagnose an ABS module fault!  I read on a Saab Central forum thread that this problem has sometimes been identified as the actual ABS Module Housing Connector, but on the inner side, especially on the reverse of the two sets of pins being jumped. Any thoughts would be most welcome.

Amazing knowledge. Thank you

Be very careful with prying apart the metal lid. I snapped the plastic housing twice trying to remove it. Make sure to cut all around!!

Hey Cyd, thank god u exist. I have a doubt with mine. I have the exact same symptoms as you describe and I did the test of bridging the connector to diagnose how u describe in ur other video.
The thing is, I opened my abs module like you did and all the pins look correct, nothing desoldered or loosened. What can I do?