MASTER your camera's ISO Setting (1/2)

Your cool !

Did you say rule the thumb?

What i learned from Simon D'notremont is you set your aperture and shutterspeed for what you need... then set your iso to whatever is needed to get the picture.

I need a guide, pls whenever I go to shoot in an event. On coming back to view the images in pc I discover that most of the image are blur...
I make use of Nikon D7100

How about Sunny 16?

F1.2Pfft, F0.33

Hot take but I think f8 is a minimum for landscapes

Nah I m good with f/16. I don't want the air force to get involved in photography

F4 for front to back sharpness , maybe with an iPhone .. all this does is confuse the confused

For those who are wondering WHY he never talked about iso here's a rundown:

Iso boosts the sensors sensitivity to light. However that comes at a cost of the photo being grainy. Myself and other astrophotography nerds are extremely familiar with iso grain.

Aperture stops change the amount of light hitting the sensor by tightening or loosening the aperture. At higher stops more is in focus, but less light comes through (pinhole effect) so in order to balance the lack of light you need more iso.

Portrait shots have a shollower depth of field, so the aperture is more open allowing in more light at the cost of the foreground and background being out of focus. With this you can lower the iso.

Slow motion cameras are a good example. Their depth of field is normal EXTREMELY pin point, like a few mm, because they need AS MUCH light as they can get for their slow motion footage.

Dude why did you show yourself when you said "some sort of an object"? XD

Still grab my NEX 5 for family photos sometime the photos look retro compared to my smartphone

pls give camera tips for phone cameras we will love em!

Also if you swap lenses a lot having a closed aperture you might see the dust on your sensor in the pictures you take. Though you can remove most of it in photoshop pretty easily to some extent. But just telling ya all

Iso adjustment is more important and I'm always facing problems with selecting correct iso and exposure

What camera is that in your hand and what size lens is that

Great tips

If you shoot with anything other than a canon, it's also beneficial to understand how iso invariance works, and to understand that digital sensors use gain, not iso. It's not always best to use the lowest "iso", as that's not usually where the best noise levels are.

What’s the editing software with those presets?

I always shot aperture unless sports action.

i think this “rule” is definitely something photographers should learn on their own, a ruined photoshoot really makes you check your camera’s limits and know them intimately

Or, or, or, just shoot in P mode with Auto ISO turned on. Set the ISO to your max allowable, then based on what you're shooting adjust either the shutter speed or aperture to your liking while maintaining perfect exposure 😅

You know...P mode is just an exposure sliding scale which combines M, Av, Tv (M, A, S) modes of your camera so you have them all simultaneously, especially if you turn your lens aperture ring on or have a lens with a manual aperture ring. Then use the AE-L button (hold/toggle).

Only use the other modes if you absolutely have to. Otherwise use P mode, and adjust your exp. Comp. P mode is a hybrid M mode when you learn to use the AE-L (auto exposure Lock) button. Especially when you turn your meter to "no time limit" and the AE-L button to "Hold".

This will lock your exposure until you press the AE-L button again. Making P mode the best of 3 world's simultaneously.

Also learn what each metering system is for to really take advantage of it.

Matrix is for balance of the entire frame.

Center weighted is for backlit scenes.

Spot meter is for HIGH CONTRAST scenes.

yeah, sure, pick f4 if you wanna get everything in focus...or 8 or 16, as there wouldnt be any difference between them - what an expert!

Manual with auto iso or bust

Also just as a disclaimer, making something sharper doesn't mean put the highest f-stop or t-stop, every lense has their highest sharpness around F5.6-f11

also a typical misconception with ISO is that "lower is always better": no, at least not in every case with every camera.
Let's say a camera has 10 stops of dynamic range:
what does it mean? That the 'zero stop' is at 5 and you have 5 stops of highlights and 5 stops of shadows? Well, it depends! With most cameras, by changing the iso you're also shifting that middle point (the 'zero' stop), giving so more stops in the highs or the lows.

TLDR: typically, depending on the camera, higher ISOs will give you more latitude in the highlights, while lower ISOs preserve more stops for darker areas giving u more shadow detail.

Blown out clouds? Believe me or not, try bumping up the iso!
You wanted a moody, lo-key shot but you end up with nothing or too much noise in the shadows? turn down the iso!

Raise the iso as High as it takes to get the shot you want
Even if you shoot f/11 and High speed.
Raise It….

Lower or higher 😅

Canon team 😊

You know what i notice now? Software is getting better. Noise is (for me) not an issue anymore, i can clean it quite well.

Theoretically what settings to keep the most in focus (with cost at colo quality/shutter spped/etc)

Here’s a “cheat code” people may agree or disagree: shoot in auto and see which settings your camera chooses. This will give u an idea of why certain settings are used in different lighting situations.

Neat tip! 👍

Your content has become a source of inspiration for me. I love the way you approach different topics. Thanks for being awesome! 🙌

When is part 2 coming?🤔

am a need a camera first 😂

I'd like think of it as aperture and ss set to what i feel like, and the iso set to whatever the camera feels like.

Great tip!

My rule of thumb: choose an ISO appropriate for your scene, then ignore it as much as possible in favor of aperture and shutter speed. If it's a bright day? 100. Cloudy, shade? Try 400 or 800. Indoors, nighttime? 400-6400, maybe higher. Now, what are you going for? High sharpness, wide or narrow depth of field, creative motion blur? Usually those things primarily rely upon either aperture or shutter speed, so adjust it for the effect you need, set the other for exposure, and only then if you're reaching the limits of your aperture/shutter speed should you consider changing ISO.

Alternatively, if you have a particular shutter speed/aperture combination in mind, I'd say it's fine to use ISO for exposure. Let's say I'm indoors and dimly lit, I'm shooting a 50mm at f/1.4, and my camera has image stabilization so I'm able to shoot handheld at 1/4s. That's a good deal of light! While my earlier rule of thumb might suggest iso 800, maybe I'd go with 100. On the other hand, maybe I need more sharpness/wider depth of field, or shorter exposure time. Then, boost the ISO.

TLDR: there are no magic numbers and the closest thing to a magic rule is sunny 16. Try stuff out, know your equipment, and focus your attention first and foremost on what results your aperture and shutter speed will give you.

On a lot of cameras you can go above iso 10000 without getting noticable noise 🤷🏻 also iso basically dictates how bright your image is going to be. As an example if you take a dark image with 100 iso then raise the shadows you get noise in the shadows, right? But if you take the same image with the same settings but with higher iso you'll get less noise in the shadows, so a higher iso can be better

Or up to 0,73 aperture but only if You have that lens 😁

I am new to photography and I'm curious how to adjust my f-stop/aperture. I have a digital camera, and have not found settings anywhere for it.

What if the object is far away

I see you standing in front of the castle in Québec…. It’s so iconic, my children en grandchildren lives there, i visited them already twice…. God i love this place…. ( i am from Belgium) i hope i can be there again in 2025 greetz from Blankenberge Belgium

F1.2 isn’t cheap though. Most people probably have f4 lenses.

Even the 24-105 is f4 unless you wanna spend a pretty penny.

Good channel though thanks for the tips.

Why use f16 instead of focus stacking? Asking as a noob. Just think at f16 you are going to deal with defraction issues.

Which cannon camera do you got there

…lower the aperture to f1.8?

I’ve been using digital cameras since 1994 with an Apple Quicktake 100 and currently use a Canon R6mkII. Over the years as camera sensors and image processing (in camera and post-processing) has improved I’ve worried less and less about noise at higher ISO. With the R6MkII shooting wildlife I use M mode with Auto ISO most of the time.

landscapes are always f8 and smaller for sharp focus, ideally f11. f22 brings in diffraction. wide angle lenses 35 and wider can take f4, but 8 is still better.

Shallow dof means wide open or 1 stop less .