Model A Ford, Sparton Horn repair, Pt 2

You are welcome, and thank you for taking a look.

Thanks for your kind words. I will need to come up with a 6 volt battery or a way to drop 12 down to 6 to properly test the horn. It works but spins way too fast so the tone is very high. I may just use some D batteries to test it...

You are welcome and thanks for following along with the series.

Dude! send [email protected] an email. I will respond with elegant electronic solution to reduce 12vdc to 6vdc using MOSFET, (used for my heater blower motor speed control in the 39 Pontiac). Odly enough, I have also re-built a motorized Aaoogah horn my self.....AND I was once an electric motor re-winder for 1ph and 3ph AC motors to 12vdc armature/field re-design! I am so smart, why aint I rich? LOL

Consider it done! I am in the same boat with you, but you know what they say, too soon old too late smart...

Thanks so much for your kind comments.

Thanks so much for your kind comment and thanks for watching.

The g-d diaphram should be reversible, so when one side wears out, you flip it over,a and use the other side, until that wears out.  I hate piss poor engineering.

The wires were originally attached with a small stub that you push into the electric contact where you had soldered the wires. The contact holds it in place.

The motor wires also had a bx type conduit connected the the cover. About 12 inches long.

Klaxton made horns for the Mdel T but not for the A. There were five makes of horns for the A including Sparton, Stewart Warner, EA, Ames and CGI. There should be a wiring terminal inside the motor base that you can push the new wires into.

Do you happen to have a source for the two felt washers for the Sparton horn? I purchased a Model A that had a horn, but it was missing parts and I have not located the original felt washers for it. The dust felt that surrounds the adjustment screw at the top of the screw and the upper oiling felt. Any source for ordering them or do you have extras you would sell? I don't see these felts at any vendor.
Thanks.

When you show in your video that little tab in the "engine housing" as you call it, your camera is not actually focused on the area well enough to see it clearly. That little hold in the diaphragm can be covered by the new gasket, so aligning it with the mark in the engine housing can easily be off, since the bolt holes in both can be misaligned. I believe that marking that small hole and also the area where it properly sits when the diaphragm is properly inserted/oriented can easily be done with a whiteout pen for future reference. Believe me, that diaphragm can indeed be inserted incorrectly. I never actually found anything that felt like a tab at my engine housing. (motor housing). Maybe it was too worn to feel.

In addition, those bolts are like carriage bolts and should only face one direction with the nuts on them facing the back cover plate of the horn. The can be inserted incorrectly. Probably not a major issue I believe I am correct that if all is aligned properly with the bolts and holes, then the long seam of the trumpet will be on the bottom side of the horn.

The previous owner of my Model A pickup had the horn apart when I got the truck. It has been a challenge to put it back together correctly since. He has a 12 v system in the truck, but had lain the two wires to the horn inside the engine bay. Of course, it didn't take long for one wire to short out against the frame there and cause the ammeter to start smoking as the wiring started to fry. I am going to add a voltage reducer, as the 12 v battery makes this horn spin too fast to give the correct Ahooga sound. In testing my horn I had used a Super Heavy Duty 6 v Battery, but it never generated enough voltage to make the horn sound at all. Once I attached it to the 12 v battery the motor spun like crazy, so I believe I am okay on the motor working. HOwever, the orientation of that engine housing and the diaphragm was off. I hope to try it out tomorrow to see if moving things back into the proper orientation works okay or not for me.

I did make up felt washers for the horn. I found some furniture leg felt that I was able to use a punch to make the larger oil felt pad with and I found some sheet felt at Hobby Lobby that works fine for the top most felt pad at the cover housing. No vender seems to make replacement pads and the previous owner had misplaced them when I got the truck.

CorrosionX is a good product to use for the electrical components of this horn for preventing rust and corrosion at the contact points and all.

Thanks for posting this video as it was very helpful. I do wish that tab you mentioned has been shown better though. I believe that was my main issue in keeping my horn from working. I don't know if the gaskets sold by vendors have that hole covered up or not when they are inserted into the horn. I sure hope this is all I need to do to wrap up fixing my horn. I was hoping a small 6v battery would be a good testing item, but so far none have worked for me, other than hooking the horn back up to the 12 v system battery. I have not installed the voltage reducer in the pickup yet though.

You are indeed lucky to have only had one internet troll criticize your work. They ruin things for everyone with their hatefulness and nonsense. I had to eliminate the comments from my own videos, as it was a real disheartening thing to see what filth and hate they could generate over even the most mundane and squeaky clean video. Again, thanks for your posting.