Hand-forged katana: Step 6, quenching and tempering

Hey there! The same guy that commented that is making his own katana here.
So, I don’t have a specialized tool for the oil bath myself, what do you suggest I should do?

Thanks for your video, you’re a huge inspiration for me to get into the world of blacksmithing.

I thought it was better to use oil instead of water to quench because water leaves the metal brittle? Is it more about the speed in which the metal is cooled rather than the liquid in which it is cooled that determines the metal's quality?

I am making preparations to begin a local blacksmithing business so I want to make absolutely sure that I have all of the information I need from more experienced blacksmiths before I begin.

Thank you for this video

what about if... if the blade is not straight enough, after quenching.
what should we do?

Mucho gusto...
What Kind of Steel was it

Idc what anyone says about swords, I consider sword making an incredible form of art and not a waste of time its kind of like making a deadly clay sculpture you can make anything you want

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How many days later is it better to re-tamper with clay?

Did you first cover the knife with clay?

Sir blade apply chemical name

Hello!! Do you do the curve before the quenching or the traditional way works in modern steel too?
Do you keep the water at room temperature?

Did you put the clay on both sides?

What steel do you used for this katana. I used 5160 leaf spring steel, so i applied only furnace cement not making hamon. Please help

I wonder, what would it take for you to teach this to people?(let's say 16 year olds)

What kind of oil do use for the temper bath?

Что за жидкость при отпуске?

Thanks for posting this and addressing the water temperature. I have a wakazashi-ish piece that I will be quenching in a couple weeks and am a bit on edge about the risk of cracking.

Very nice work, btw.

Nice presentation, I like your videos! I'm working on a katana for a customer, my first one so I'm gathering all the info I can. I'm using W1 and have been planning on an oil quench because I couldn't prevent it from cracking in small scale tests when quenching in water. I didn't heat the water or interrupt the quench, so I'll have to try that out. What kind of failure rate do you see with this method? Even if I can make water work in a test I may still do oil as I literally can't afford to have this blade fail, but next time . . .

to make clay, as in the video what materials are needed

I am from indonesian
Can you tell me. What is material to make clay?..

118 is ideal, but difficult to precisely control.

Interrupted quenching isn't as bad as a non-interrupted quench. Though, oil quenches are far safer. Unless you enjoy losing half of your blades.

Is this type of heat treatment possible – with this beautiful end result – with smaller and thinner blades +/- 2.5~4 mm thickness?

gasバーナーによる焼入れですね
　海外では良い炭が無いのでしょうか⁉️
　炉が短く全体の刀身に上手く均一に焼入れが出来たのでしょうか？
　実戦刀では元にそれ程焼きを入れる必要が無いので、刀身の焼き色を見ると先から３/４辺り迄均一に焼いて居るようですね
　日本の刀匠で修行されたのでしょうね

1095 or better 1080 or 1060 carbon steel???

Sir, how could we temper 1080 without oven after water quench. Because i have no oven. How could I temper on my furnace, could you suggest me how to do simple way tempering and farenheit degree

Would be interested in seeing how to straighten out any curves. Too many times have my blades developed curves and I'm not sure how to mitigate it. Love the videos btw :)

Hello, question ❓ would you or have you quenched 1095 in this fashion with 1095 in 120 degree water? Thanks for the great informative videos sir.

What is the purpose of quenching

Fire melts a sword water cools the sword and creates steam.

I've seen other differential hardening videos where the sori produced by the quench is quite substantial. Do you know why the added curve in your blade is so slight compared to others? Thanks :)

These videos are super cool and helpful as a beginner getting into katana making thank you for the helpful and informative stuff!

Greetings from finland, great video. I have a blade i would like to quench and temper, i am unsure of the material and afraid of it cracking. Would it be safer to quench in oil or water with intervals, im not so concerned of the hamon.

heard water and immediatly paused the video so i didn't have to see any more of it.

some makers quench in warm water for only two seconds, then into oil. friend of mine hardened an 8670 blade in 140 degree water, using an interrupted quench. it worked, but 8670 is a little more hardenable than plain carbon steel.

Great work, but my suggestion is- start tempering maximum 2 hours after quenching, don't leave it 'till next morning. Otherwise- all hardening stresses within steel will become permanent. The blade will be hard, but brittle, not so tough. After quenching changes within steel are still ongoing, so- it would be perfect to start tempering immediately after quenching. Then- same hardness as on next morning, but- more toughness.
After one hour of tempering, let it cool slowly- it will become more impact resistant and tough.

What's the last procedure for?

Amazing video! Can i ask what tipe of oil do you use for the tempering?

Interesting. I always quench my swords with fresh blood from a condemned man. The finished blade is then named after his mother.

Do katana curve when they are quenched only if they are straight? What if the Katana is already curved? Doesn't it curve?

What would happend if you quench the katana in oil?

First comment 🎉

Nice, that was interesting

.the blade already has a curve before it quenching...
.this is failure... 😂

заготовка изначально как была кривая, так такая же осталась. нет искривления при закалке.

Will you ever try forging a straight blade and quenching it to the final shape?

Not that I could remotely afford one ... how do you get one of your masterpieces? (And do you do Medieval-style swords? I'm more of a Knight than a Ninja to be honest...) - Anyway looks amazing, you're obviously exceptionally talented & knowledgeable.