Vapor Lock: Watch Fuel Boil and Learn Tips on How to Avoid It

the gasoline flash point is -45 degrees. meaning at -45 degrees in an open cup gas will flame if you pass a flame over the top of it. DO NOTE that MINUS 45 degrees F.

I'm really surprised it took you that long to figure out vapor lock...

Yes to look up Tony's garage way simpler way cheaper works wonderful...

Or just add a 3 head fuel filter witha return line to tank....35$.....

Hey is that a 69 Camaro with a black vinyl top over lower gold paint? My brother bought a 69 in 70 or 71 and still has t today.

where does the air come from when fuel boils? surely it is petrol vapour?

Was the fuel boiling in the fuel pump and running up the hose or boiling because of the hose?????

Chrome won't get you home!

Too much time and money

Are you kidding? All of this for vapor lock? Don't think so.

Geeze, what a complicated and expensive way to fix a problem a $8 napa filter could fix. Again, learned it from Uncle Tony.

Eric I have the same issue with my 87 trans am 5.7

Yep go to uncle Tobys garage channel, he fixes it with a wix filter 33040 ? ( just get a 3 outlet fuel filter with a small hole for back pressure in the run outlet to the tank ) and with the third smaller outlet on top or north of the filter run a line back to the tank, sometimes the tank has the hole in it at the connection for the return line, where did the idea of running fuel line to the carburetor only come from ?

I know this video came out in 2016 but Here's another tip i picked up back in the day in a issue of hot rod magazine: 101 tech tips. If you have a metal gas tank prep the metal surface for primer / paint . Used high temp header primer and paint with the ceramic in VHT or dupli color . But use the header aluminum paint. It will insulate the tank from heat coming off of the motor / car / pavement and keep the gas cooler. Also if you use a mechanical or electric fuel pump always use a vapor return line to get rid of a lot or all of vapor lock.

We drill this fucking thing upside down as not to let shavings enter the tank, then we put all kinds of shavings into the tank..

Excellent video but why do you use the old temperature scale Farenheight but not Celcius which most of the world uses?

Gonna go witj UTG but thanks

Uncle Tony did it better

So Erik what we really need is some fkn fuel formulas changed .

We are paying 3to 4 times in price for SHITTY Fuel!!!!!

To bad we can't put a TIGER in our tank any more.

Exxon old days fuel. 104 octane now that's how you fix it!!!

Let's face it we are getting screwed!!!!!!!

Oh yes put a new 180 degree t stat and lower engine temp, and increase miles.

Why not just run non oxy fuel

Hi, I wonder if I can
use a fuel pressure regulator with 2 fittings as a return line for vapor lock this way: One fitting going to the carburetor, since I am using only one carb setup I need only one line, the other fitting going back to the fuel tank as the return line..Thanks

One of those filters with 3 fingers (Wix 33041), a return line to the tank, insulate the feed line in the engine bay to the carburetor with ceramic fire insulation wrapped in foil tape, get rid of mechanical fuel pump and replace with an electric, a phenolic carb spacer.......fixed my vapor lock....even on 100F days in Colorado altitude on 89 octane ethanol gas. Find a sender with an inlet along with the outlet and switch it out. Don't cut a hole in the tank.

my 1jz actually had this exact problem, previous owner ran a returnless system

idiots

Hey guys, I am a small engine Mechanic - I`ve had the issue a few times of steel gas tanks needing holes drilled into them sometimes and I`ve come up with a 100% perfect solution to keep EVERY little speck of that metal debris/shavings from entering the gas tank - and THAT is to use one or several very powerful Ceramic "Rare Earth" magnets around the area where the hole or holes are being drilled, and you do NOT need to be in the awkward upside down position (and get a possible injury to your eyes and HOT shavings to skin areas making you jump from the burn reaction, possibly messing up the hole) to do the job. When finished with your cutting, drilling, de-burring?, simply Slide the magnet to the hole you just cut and remove the collected shavings. Another added suggestion would be to have a "Secondary" magnet set directly attached to the outside bottom of the tank directly below the drilled hole JUST in case SOME does slip past, when done?, you can (like " I " do) is to clean THOSE shavings at the INSIDE bottom of the tank where (IF ANY) that magnet was placed?, use a wood stick/Dowell with a Q-Tip like bundle on the end of it (DON`T use a telescoping magnetic pick-up tool to do this, it does NOT pick up those shavings because the area is MADE magnetic by the stronger magnet and chips WILL stay there) with a petroleum based lubricant to wipe/pick up any shavings after removing the magnet from it`s location. Hope this solves SOME headache`s with that issue.

I have lit'l toyota pick up. Never had problems with the mechanical fuel pump but I was driving it & then it just dies on me. Dissconnected the fuel line that goes into carb & there was no fuel going into the carb. So I bought a new one & it does the same thing. It does this after 10-15 min. of driving. It'll turn back on after like 10 min. But then it dies again. I'm kinda stummped never had vapor lock before & i've driven it in 90-100° weather before never had this issue before. It barly started down this & the weather about 35°-50° rite now. Any one else have this problem & if so what cud make the mechinical pump do this. Thinking of going with electric fuel pump. But kinda iffy on those.

U just need a return line and a jet on the fitting.

LOL, "Prestige" Motorsports. Made me bust up laughing because all I can think of is Prestige Worldwide from Step Brothers. "Boats and Hoes!"

Complete bullshit.

No mention of how insane it would be to drill holes in a tank that just been taken off full of fuel vapour

Or just install a fuel pressure regulator with a return line...

When I run fuel lines off a mechanical pump, I always dbl check to see if gravity still is a thing!

Fuel blends boiling at 100-degrees Fahrenheit?
Bullshit.

Damn that’s a lot of work. I fixed vapor lock in my 62 impala for about $50. Purchased return hose and 3nipple fuel filter before the carburetor. Also used some heat shield wrap over the fuel lines in the engine. I drilled into the filler neck so I didn’t have to clean up or mess with the gas tank at all. I live in texas with 100+ degrees all week. I drive my old school every single day:) after I did that fix my car never had any problems after that. I even went to car shows driving for 4+ hours with the car on and sitting in the summer :)

I've been dealing with ethanol issues on all the big 3 for years. The first thing to determine when having fuel issues: is the issue not enough fuel in the carb, or too much fuel? Not enough = vapour lock. Solution is electric pump and return line. An in frame Edelbrock works well. That set up in the Impala looks extremely expensive and prone to failure. I had a ford 460, 4100 series Motocraft carbed motorhome that worked flawlessly even climbing mountain passes in B.C. at 37 degrees celcius, loaded. NEVER percolated or vapour locked. And it had those two things.

Too much fuel/flooding = heat soak/percolation. The solution so far is a return line port as close to carb as possible, insulating lines, and as tall as possible Phenolic/wood spacer under carb. Also that big, hideous air cleaner is going to trap a lot of heat at the carb!

Just put clothes pins on the line and go. Works

So running e85 will keep this from happening because it’s a much cooler fuel and I can attest to this because my car is fuel Injected and I’m currently breaking in a new motor and I’m running on 93 octane fuel. 93 has a low vapor/flash point so my cars big turbo would create heat and my fuel rails would vaporize and I couldn’t get the car to start for a while and it would shut off while driving on the highway. I got a partial tune and running e85 now and it has helped a lot.

Seems like a lot of money and work for something that can be fixed for about $25. Get a fuel filter for an 89 Grand Wagoneer and install it between the carb and pump. Run a line (preferably steel) back to the tank and attach it wherever you want on the tank. Many different ways this can be done. I daily drive a slant six dart with a mechanical pump on normal 87 octane ethanol crap and never have problems. And if you know where the fuel pump is on a slant and how the fuel line is run on one, you know the pump sees zero air flow and the line is less than 1" from the exhaust manifold. No destroying a good fuel tank, no regulators, no easy to puncture hoses and no electric pump with shoddy wiring to fail. Works every time.

Mongo - LIKE

“We turned the tank upside down to minimize metal shavings into the tank” … continued by all the next drill and grinding work and cutting work with the tank upside up lol

Great advertisement

Will running Non ethanol fuel work ?

just build a desagasifier with8 dollars,
no more vapour lock

Commercial

You act like you have invented the concept of vapor lock.

Put a $8. 3 port fuel filter on it.

Running a vented fuel filter and a line back to the filler neck is a much easier solution.

I bought a f 800 fire truck with 11k on it. They said it sat in the back of the fire hall for 20 years bc it wouldnt stay running. 429 bb industrial. and it runs fkin great when shes cool but when its hot kikin and buckin. SOOO i found a factory fuel tank that would except a high volume low pressure in tank oem pump and added a restricted return line to get the pressure back to 6 psi and never had a problem since.