Fix a warped 3D printer bed in minutes with tape #shorts

Can't say that its smart but when mine warped I heat and cooled it in hot water a few times after cleaning and left it on a warm relatively flat bench it seem to help me out... Buuuuuut I have to add I think it was the lack of weight on the heated bed and that I think it had warped from the clips.. so take what you will from me but it helped 😆

My glass bed is warped

1 year with bambu and no issues....

I thought you were going to show us how to map your bed and then print out a custom shim out of a high temp filament.
I realize the faults of that idea but now I wonder 🤔

I was literally just fighting this problem. The frame of my slingbed is warped.

I will give it a try. Thanks coach!

I'm having a heck ofva time getting my printer to print a decent first layer. I even have dual Z, and Beacon3D surface scanner with klipper...I bet you could figure it out...

I have a 3/16 thick piece of lexan. Takes about 30 minutes to get to temp and warps like mug, but prints stick like glue.

I use kapcon tape. I get great results. Can get it really close.

my bed is wraped in center with 1.5mm height difference

This made all the difference!!!! Ty you so much

Thanks, suddenly i was not able to level my bed no matter what i did. I ordered a new bed but if it eventually happens again, I'll try this.

Great idea!!!

What tape is good to go? I found M3 425, which is meant to be thermally conductive and - relatively to other tapes - quite thick, with 0.17 mm including the liner. Is that what's recommended?

Tip works but there is a problem. On lage print i had problems that magnet cant hold print surface

What tape would you recommend for this?

What type of tape is that Kapton tape?

I've done this but with just a sheet on a4 paper taped down

Why should one have to do this? 3d printers are not cheap. Clearly this is a fundamental design fault.

Question: What happens to tape when it reaches 215⁰?

G10 is a great material to use as a secondary baseplate. Changed my Life in printing

My glass bed got dips in the middle and it’s crealit

1.2 mm nozzle suddenly bed leveling just doesn't matter anymore :-)

With creality that was every print struggle, with Prusa i can leave it for months and pop it back on and zero adjustments needed. Highly recommend, very reliable

Ooh, I needed this. Thanks

Even the automatic Z offset doesn’t seem all too reliable sadly

I did this in my early days before i started to play with firmware and added manual mesh and eventually went to bltouch and BD sensor. Auto leveling is a nice feature when you get comfortable enough to add it.

Thats why I use Prusa ❤ I have no problém with first layer.

I did this! And it works! But I used aluminum foil "ducting" tape. It works for a while but I think it's thermal expansion that created a wrinkle in the middle. So also choose a tape that won't expand. I'm thinking polyimide tape

Just use mesh bed levelling. Problem solved.

Aluminum foil (or aluminum tape) would better transfer heat, but there will be a slight air gap between areas with foil or tape and areas without them; this will reduce heat transfer and therefore surface temperature in some areas. Without measuring this, I don’t know if it would be significant, but it is a valid concern.

I don't have any printer yet but just ordered a prusa mk4 kit and I am glad it has auto leveling. So hyped to get into 3d printing

Maybe try shims or some feeler gauges. ...Iddy its

i upgraded my ender 3 V2 with BLtouch sond and its perfect.

What kind of tape is that?

my OG Ender-3 seems to print thicker on the left side of the bed and thinner on the right. This is only noticeable when printing larger objects that span both sides. Is this a warped bed when heated or are my sprints not set right or is my x-y axis not parallel to the bed?

Thank you.I have been looking for a solution to this problem like forever every single 3.D printer I ordered had a warped bed.

I added in the center of my Ender 3 S1 Pro a single post it and now it's waaaaay better

With my ender 3 pro, I just use aluminum foil shims.

Why don’t you put glass on your 3d printer?
Me: it fucks up my leveling

Try Axis Twist Compensation if you are running Klipper and nothing seems to fix the issue.
Best to make a quick button mount that can be put into your nozzle heatblock with a battery and LED so you get a consistent distance.
Because Axis Twist Compensation requires you to do a manual z offset in various locations. But it doesn't actually measure the z offset but rather the difference between the probe and your nozzle. It then averages the results around 0. Klipper will then read from a table much like auto bed leveling but based on the X axis.

So if your X axis is 0.002mm off at 20 and -0.08mm off at 40 it will add 0.002mm at 20 to the probed height and add -0.08mm at 40 to the probed height and in between it will pretend the bend is linear.

I made a small 3d printed button holder with 2 holes in it then pushed a button I desoldered from something into the print and together with an LED and battery I probed my printers bed 66 times. It varies between -0.06 to 0.07. So more than a single layer at 0.1mm.
After saving the configuration I printed a flat 0.1mm thick thing 100x100mm and it still had some areas that were thinner than others but there were no holes nor was there any scraping on the build plate.

I would strongly recommend this to people with an Ender 3 with ABL. Though it does take a while this is the only real way to correct the issue. Or if you are running a printer with dual X rods. The issue is multiplied in those.

I tried making the aluminium extrusion flat again by using 2 thick iron bars and heat but it did absolutely nothing. The bars were clamped hard into the extrusion and it simply didn't help.

You can also just buy a new bed/plate.

I honestly gave up and just put a sheet of glass on mine...Then it was heating up too much and ruined the first several layers of my prints.
I gave up completely and just bought a P1S 3 years later.

I modded my CR-6 with silicon spacers instead of the plastic ones, and turned the glass bed upside down and used glue instead. Now it's damn near perfect, I had over a mm difference before but now after 6 hours trial end error, fine tuning, it's down to 0.05 when I do the auto level.

The single rail Y setup is the bane of all 3d printing problems

Mine was rasing on the center when heated so I turned it upside down and held the corners with the paper clips, problem solved

Wow!
This is really smart!
Thanks for the tip.
I might use it on an Anycubic Kobra Neo (which has Auto bed levelling).

Which tape exactly did you use?

I used a strip of tinfoil in the middle.

I used sticky notes :)

I have a dip across the center of my x axis, i’ll try this