Tools and Tips #1 from Applied Science

Careful with any adhesive that contains chlorine! On its own, it's a toxic gas, but in a compound, it bonds easily to anything it touches, including your body. So make sure your work area is well-ventilated. Always a good idea to check out the MSDS.

acryllic drills, 60 degree. if you can get them. How far have you got genetically programming ants to crawl up gun barrels.

What is a "fries electronics"?

I have precisely the same Ikea lamp that you showed but I've had a problem with it for as long as I've owned it: after being on for a certain period (less than half an hour) it suddenly dims, and proceeds to alternate between bright and dim, sometimes flickering quite rapidly, and generally being a distraction. Intuition says this is a thermal issue but I haven't the slightest Idea how to keep it cooler or otherwise resolve the issue. Have you had the same problem? And if so, how can it be resolved?

Plastics are really a pain. These tips are really appreciated.

Tape, generally, including gaffer tape in a wide variety of sizes and a few colors: “Gaffer Power” Consistently high quality. The more effective tapes can be harder to handle: harder to pull, and the tape often has to be rubbed down after application to get the adhesive to set. But it is worth it.

check out loctite "plastic bonding system" super glue; it's ca glue but binds to hdpe

With your glowing review of e6000 (3 years ago, as I write this) I decided to buy some and try it.

My spectacles broke at the bridge so this looked like a great test case. The glasses are some kind of plastic or resin, so I scuffed up the broken faces and the 4 sides adjacent to the break (so as to create a "blob" repair extending both directions beyond the break).

I cleaned the surfaces with IPA and dried it with a hot air gun on low. I then opened a newly-purchased (from a high-volume dealer) tube of e6000 and wasted a big glob (I find all adhesives separate a little so never use the first out of the tube). I applied some to both surfaces (as directed by the instructions), waited a little, and then pressed them together. After the joint had set up a little, I followed up with more all around the joint, creating an elongated "blob" repair.

I supported the frames and let it set overnight at summertime nighttime room temps. In the morning I found that it was flexible, somehow not what I expected. I tried them on my face and immediately knew that this was not strong enough for a permanent repair. So I pulled apart the repair and pulled off the adhesive from the frames.

I was quite surprised to find that the e6000 had not bonded to the frames *at all*. The e6000 peeled off easier than cheap rubber cement. Where I had removed the e6000, the frames were completely clean, as if I had done no repair at all--no evidence of chemical bonding whatsoever.

I remember that you had said that you thought that e6000 consisted of perchloroethylene solvent and clear elastomer. I don't know perchloroethylene from spit, but I know that it doesn't attack a pretty common plastic (I'm sure my glasses frames aren't nylon or HDPE).

So just an FYI to viewers who come here and see e6000 and decide to try it. My opinion: it's a non-silicone RTV, nothing special.

For the repair, I fell back to my standard (and a favorite of yours): Devcon Plastic Welder. The result was strong and rigid. What I expected the e6000 to be, but wasn't.

"Well nut" is a great example of a thing you can scarcely imagine using, much less find and buy, until you know its name. Another favorite of mine in that category is the blind grommet. I wanted to plug some holes in a metal box I used for an antenna feed-through, until I needed to use them. I could visualize the thing but it took me ages to come up with its name. There must be a list of these somewhere....

iv looked for gaffers tape its either overly expensive or hard to find where do u guys get it??

i highly recommend a headlamp, u have to make sure u get "not a cheap one" lol u dont need n expensive one the $25 ones r perfect

heck yeah i found that helpfull

thanks my dude

i love these

Devcon plastic welder is the best adhesive for plastics. The one downside to it is that it has a short shelf life. When buying it at the store, open it up to make sure it's still good. It should be really creamy in consistency and light colored. If one of the components is golden brown, it's past its prime

E6000, Amazing Goop, and Shoo Goo, which is chemically similar Goop, are perchloroethylene-based adhesives from Eclectic products. E6000 is odorless, nonflammable & dries clear. Shoe Goo/Goop uses toluene & naphtha (like flammable oil-based coatings which should be ventilated in confined areas) & dries amber. The Shoe Goo may adhere better because of more difficult-to-use refined solvents.

For tapping hard materials the straight taps shown in your video are better but I have found that for tapping soft plastics and especially perspex you need a spiral tap. The waste channels of a spiral tap are a spiral instead of being straight and they are designed for softer materials. They don't work as well as a straight tap on hard materials but they work much better than a straight tap on soft materials.

Good video, I didn't know a couple of these, thanks! You might like shoe goo, a favorite adhesive of mine. Also a Panduit gun and panduits are super sized zip ties used in hvac trade that are handy to have on hand.

Dangerous but effective Canned Air works good for De Soldering.

Never had luck with the dual syringe despensors. I cross contaminate the hardener with the resin and it canalizes in the tubes.

Used Tie Wrap Guns for years building wire harnesses.

E6000 contains.... PERC? I thought that got banned along with Carbon Tet? Or is it a different sort of PERC?

Why did it take me 5 years to learn the most amazing hot glue life hack

Has Perchloroethylene now been banned ?

If you're not getting a volume discount and can find what you're looking for elsewhere, don't order from McMaster Carr.

Omg. I love E6000.

The light thing; Industrial Engineering shows that better lit reduces error; I now work with focused bright illumination & magnifiers; on everything

dipping hot glue in water helps solidify the glue quickly too

I call wellnuts. Willnots. Because most motorcycles and atvs use them alot and once installed for a few years in the weather they will not come out. Then your in trouble because they're usually holding very exspensive body panels on

Ikea discontinued that light.

On tapping of holes, you can get several types of products that make things easier.
When I worked at a navy yard we had a task of drilling and taping hundreds of holes on a Aluminum sheet 1/2" thick and was 4' X 8'. That Sheet was used to mount approximately 40 Multi-switch boxes for inter-communications. We used this adapter called Tapmatic with a 3/4" Hand-drill.
It would drill and tap the hole with a drill/ tap bit that would do it in one operation. It was a design that would keep the bits from breaking because it was adjusted for torque and or speed. I believe its still made. This was during the mid to late 60s. Its diameter was less than 4" on diameter. It could also be used on a drill press. Of course at that time there was a handle that was held to keep it from spinning. Now they have improved that quite a bit so that handle is no longer a part of the unit. There are drill bit combinations that will start a hole and end with a tap . when you pull the drill back out of the hole the Tapmatic reverses direction.

GaffersTape ?? ... WTH !!
THIS IS CANADA !!...
WE USE 30mm HOCKEY STICK TAPE !!

So if you want to bond to a PA6 also known as Nylon6, what type of epoxy will work?
Very informative vids, thank you.

Thank you Ben for all the great videos. This really is one of my go-to channels. I have just received an Ikea Jansjo lamp in the post and it is really handy! The adhesive recommendations are also very much appreciated as these formulas aren't that common in the UK and I would never have discovered them otherwise.

Have you tried the 2K glue "type 302" from china? Sounds like the 1st one you show could be the same stuff.

As a live audio guy, I can confirm that gaff tape is near PERFECT for 90% of taping needs!

Ben, you inspire me to do more with my life. I wish I could devote all of my time toward development and experimentation, for the betterment of our existence. Thank you for all that you do Sir.

I just wanted to let you know that this video saved me more than $400. The plastic nose piece of my eyeglass frame broke off a few months ago, and my previous experience gluing plastic showed me that it was likely hopeless to fix them. After seeing your recommendation for Devcon I tried it and it worked great. An eye exam and new glasses would be very expensive but you saved me tons of money. They have held up perfectly for several weeks.

Even though I don’t have the technical ability to fully understand the math and chemistry behind a lot of your videos, I still find them fascinating and in the case of your tip videos, extremely helpful. I hope that’s fulfilling in some small way; thanks again. :)

What brand is your glue gun?

++ on Devcon Plastic Welder (cream color).
Note that it (and all epoxies) have a shelf-life; about 1 year for this product.

Oops, there's no such thing as an "MSDS sheet"!

Place a washer between the weld nut and screw and you have no need to hold the rubber in place.

Surprised I have not seen this, but glad I finally saw ! ! ! Great general info ! ! !

Oh man you gotta 'get a good rhythm going when you're tapping a lot a holes!'

epoxy smells like vomit which might say something for stomach acid lol

Something that might be worth mentioning is that you can actually regrind drills to have custom point angles and rake angles, no need to pay big bucks for custom bits

for tapping the hole, instead of using distiled water you should use TAP water.
''tap water, not just good for tapping holes'' - AvE

Excellent! I learned a lot. Thank you.