3.6L V6 Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep, Ram, Promaster Common Engine Problem Repair It With SPELAB Autoparts

That plastic housing will eventually warp and Leak again! Aluminum or mopars redesigned new plastic will be better that that unit.

"Ole filter"..... "Ole cooler"...🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴

Heat cool cycles makes plastic brittle... What a piece of crap...

Why would anyone even bother buying the 3.6? Oh yeah, to broke for the HEMI😂😂

Damn, dude, the Dorman aluminum replacement is $309 right now @ O'reillys, too! Even the Standard plastic replacement one is $289!! I'd be pissed if I was a Pentastar owner encountering this problem!!!🤬From what I've read, too, this design doesn't even incorporate an anti-drainback valve either! Hell, my 2010 GM 3.6l which also uses a cartridge-style filter has an anti-drainback valve built into the bottom of it AND it is all-aluminum from the factory!! The Pentastar was 1st released in what, 2011?

18 ft lbs, but a cheap torque wrench at harbor freight. (25 nm). Only cost $30

Hello just wondering; what’s a great price to pay for oil cooler

I have a 2017 Grand Cherokee with a lifetime warranty! At 85000 a couple months ago this had to be replaced due to a leak. Nothing to do with the cap. I do my own oil changes I don't over tighten. I have only had 2 issues with this car. Oil cooler and some motor on the rear dif. that caused a code. Otherwise I do the maint. and drive. I believe you are incorrect about the failure rate on this part. They diagnosed it over the phone. The dealer replaces these all the time.

Where can i pick up the Dorman Upgraded Aluminum Engine Oil Filter? I have 108K miles on my 2018 Ram 1500 and it is leaking oil.

I purchased a 2011 grand caravan crew for 2k and the the oil cooler went out, not where the filer goes but housing that brings the engine coolant and it spewed everywere almost causing the engine to over heat, which on Chrysler engines overheating requires guaranteed head gaskets replacement or need for new or remanufactured heads. Oddly enough the coolers for 2012 and newer oil coolers are less expensive and have better filters so long as you let anyone that changes the oil know if your not DIY. The intake is going to have to be removed and you might as well change the plugs and check the injectors while its off and make sure place something to prevent debris from falling in the engine also check the knock sensors next to the housing. While i was at it i actually put in a 2019 Pacifica lower intake pelem alowing better air flow along with Laser Iridium plugs Bosch injectors and OEM intake gaskets the aftermarket gaskets are trash if OEM not in stock fellpro is maybe safe.

No offense dude but as a 56 year old mechanical engineer with a a jeep they don't typically leak from up there. They fail from the expansion differential between the aluminum and the plastic. It will fail at the bottom between 60-90,000 miles. My Mopar gear buddies have all had to change them at some point. Bad design.

I don’t know how in the hell you would ever cross thread that cap they definitely can be over tightened. The whole engine design is just faulty. I will never buy another American vehicle ever. It hurts my heart. Hundred percent Toyota for me or maybe even electric that sounds better yet I’m just gonna have to keep a Honda generator in my trunk in case I have to drive it out of town and need to fuel up in the middle of the night.😂

Aye, man its nothing u can do unless u can prove they did anything. Its your word against theirs. A friend of mine went through the same thing. I never let anyone get under my hood but me. So far ive been able to fix everything that has broken myself. Rams are good trucks and i like working on mine. I get to know my baby😊

Replaced mine BY MYSELF last summer and put in a metal one.

NOT A MOPAR!!!!!

I'm sure I've replaced like 20 of those oil coolers for a leaking. They are a problem, and they do leak

That oil filter on top is garbage desighn not good at all, thats why they cknock in cold starts

Yeah never ever let someone else change the oil on a 3.6. Learn how to do it yourself it's extremely easy.

This part go with oem part

I went to Jiffy Lube and they forgot to put the o-ring gasket on the threaded cap. Lost a bunch of oil and fortunately the oil pressure sensor let me know there was a problem. I had to have the Van - Promaster 2500 towed to a shop where they diagnosed the issue. I think there is just too much turnover in personnel at Jiffy Lube and they don't train their new techs adequately.

What the hell is a neutin meter?

Repeating it 6 times

I think the Jeep Wranglers have more problems from heat while off roading and rock crawling. Going so slow can't cool off oil filter cooler housing.

The torque causing this is BS. My 2013 wrangler has had three composit and two DORMAN installed and it leaked immediately. Blows out where the small casting channel is. Last two dormans did this. I’m looking for a different engine after five installs. CFA SHOULD BE SUED OVER THIS ISSUE. I THINK THE HIGH OIL PRESSURE THESE ENGINES RUN ARE THE MAIN PROBLEM BUT WHAT DO I KNOW

That’s just one of the issues. The oring’s flatten and wear out. The plastic also warps from heat cycles.

Get an all Aluminum replacement !!

If you replace it with the Dorman unit, make sure you get a kit of Fel Pro gaskets and new OEM sensors.

LOL Mopar Fam! LOL

You are so wrong. They are totally notorious for leaking oil into the valley and off the back of the engine. The cheap plastic construction will eventually allow oil leaks under the unit. The main issue is not cross threading the cap or over torquing it. When you need to replace it, there are aluminum replacement parts that I would highly recommend using instead of another plastic unit. The big issue with this engine is when it will not go over 4000 rpm for no obvious reason with no engine light or fault codes. Then when you turn off the engine and restart all is normal again. No one seems to have a definitive answer for this issue. Be interested to see what you have to say about this.

Done that on my ram 1500

Anything below 20 ft lbs is not very much torque wise. Snugging by hand and not cranking down is generally fine.

I put the Aluminum one on with a Baxter oil filter adapter to be able to use regular oil filters with anti drain back valve to prevent dry starts

Ole filter, ole cooler

They are very notorious for leaking, the o-rings on the bottom of the cooler wear flat and leak down over the transmission

The biggest failure is the gaskets that seal the unit to the engine block, overtime they get hard and start to leak. You can buy a set of gaskets for 25$

Don't bother . They don't have anything available for 2014 and newer 🙄

Can you put anti-sease on the threads? That might help.

Right if you have a new o ring, you could leave the cap a bit loose and it will not leak!, but don't do it, point is, it is the oring that seals it up...making it a bit tighter that stock...makes no difference and could kill it!!!

Why didn't Chrysler get it right the first time by having a aluminum oil filter housing assembly. Plastic doesn't work

And you guys believe this mopar/chrysler paid off shill?!? He's a paid BS talking head for THEM!!! The plastic oil cooling filter housing was a total BS bust! Together with the TIPM. One obvious bait you're falling in from tis hack, if you're going to change (and you will if you haven't from PLASTIC!) you don't keep the aftermarket sensors from the NEW aftermarket filters. You remove your original sensors from your cars ORIGINAL junk part, and mount on your BRAND-NEW ALUMINUM oil filter cooler! MARK!!!

Great information I replaced mine after Valvoline change my oil and destroyed mine and refuse to take responsibilityv

How ironic the first thing that you mentioned on this vehicle is the first thing I've ever broke on my car😅

Plastic part burried UNDER the intake manifold = STUPID.
Oil COOLER located UNDER the intake manifold = STUPID.
GUARANTEED dry-start design (no backflow prevention) = STUPID.
Replace plastic WITH plastic = MORONIC!

FIX by replacing with ALL ALUMINUM.
REPLACE stock filter with Baxter adapter.
Problem SOLVED

Went cheep with complete oil cooler assembly for my 2014 Grand Cherokee V6 (w/ both sensors, oil filter, all gaskets and hardware already installed) - $70 bucks on AMZ with 5 star reviews. P0520 came immediately back on after I went through the entire job, including oil change with new filter, add coolant, etc. Now I scratch my head if dismantle everything again and swap for a Mopar part is the only solution, or perhaps something else triggers the code. By the way - the reading of my oil pressure is correct on the instrument cluster - starts at 90 psi on a cold engine, but quickly going down to between 20-25 on idle and 45-60 when driving. Engine works smooth and quiet (I also changed all 6 coils and spark plugs). So I question why I get this code? Maybe the sensor works, just gives wrong readings on a cold start? Any thoughts from anyone who had similar situation greatly appreciated!

My 2013 Town and Country, the coolant connection cracked and I lost all the coolant 4 hrs into a 16 hr road trip. Tow bill was covered by insurance. The repair was not. I wish I'd been home so I could have done it myself. There is an all metal version available that is much more durable FYI.

Those leak all the time, dude fuel of 💩😂

This stupid plastic housing will begin to warp over time and start to leak, and they are actually very notorious for leaking. Every mechanic I have asked about says its one of the first items that will need to be replaced on this engine. I replaced mine with an Dorman aluminum version. And aside from the time consuming disassembly of the intake, its a pretty easy job for anyone who can work on their car.

There is a new all aluminum housing assembly to correct the plastic housing quality issues. Be sure to get the high quality stuff and not the cheap Chinese version as replacing the unit is labor intensive.

If u ever do this change plugs while ur at it