What's the beef with Chevy trucks? CAR WIZARD shares their differences and which TO BUY & NOT TO BUY

My favorite truck is the Action Line but no Xtra Cab so I bought a 1995 Silverado with 350 TBI 4L60e. Most reliable vehicle I've ever owned still going nearly 30 years later. About time for a complete restoration. Still haven't really wanted a LS engine.

Leaky Intake gaskets can cause a lean condition

706 heads and 862 heads are notorious for cracking on the 4.8 and 5.3 in 2001- 2008

On an 2005 its pretty easy to change cams

"Nobodys gonna watch a 6 hour video." Um, yeah we will!

What an incredible video! A ton ok knowledge and naturally we viewers look for things your wrong about but I agreed with everything. I’m 58 and have a mechanical background and also dealt with mostly Chevys. Great information

What happened to the video around minute 10?

Last quality truck I bought was a 1996 Dodge Ram. 245,000 miles. Ran awesome. Should have kept it.. Never had a issue with it.

The last good vehicle was the Ford Model "A" !

Been looking at a first truck and the 96-98 1500s look like a good option. Anyone have any experience with these trucks and would you reccomend one?

Thank you mr wizard i have a 1999 chevy silverado with the 5.3 and in my opinion its the 3 best small block chevy ever made the 350 327 and the 5.3 are hands down my favorite im from a small town from a family that has always love chevy we take after someone you may know who is kin of mine you may know harry gant he is a lover of chevy i guess i am to lol

TBI = throttle-body ignition ??

My Bub is absolutely done with grandpa customers. Do not bring your grandpa to this man’s shop. He’s had enough. Cut him a break already

Id love to know the correct front strut assembly to buy for my 07 GMC Yukon Denali with Z55 suspension that doesn't run a resistor to fool the computer i want a plug and play like the OEM part

I'm selling my 1992 k5 blazer needs paint. 350 with 4 speed auto. I'm the second owner, I bought it from my dad's buddy 18 years ago.

I drove a 1986 heavy 3/4 ton 4by with a 454 for 30 years . I drove it all over Alaska. It was a tank .

I still remember the many many Bob Segar commercials when I was a kid. Seemed like every other commercial was a Chevy Truck Like A Rock commercials.

Changed at least 25/30 of these out, bought 99 tahoe that was minty from my neighbor with 196k it was haraged in climate controlled garbage for $1500 because the shop she took all her cars to wanted $3000 to fix,it had backfired out tailpipe and blew the muffler in half,first one I did $400 for the multi injector system that thing went from 7/8 mog to 17/18 mpg local 20/22 highway,it would start almost looking at the key,I sold it with,sadly I was going thru a divorce and loaned it to my estranged wife to move her and children's things and got it back with particulates in the oil and clogging the filter,caused the motor to eat it's bearings in couple miles..,😟

I have an 70 and 80 chev. I also have a 72 and 76 Gmc. I have tons of used parts and do everything myself. Best vehicles on the road in my opinion

I could care less if a check engine light comes on, if it's starting and appears to be running fine and gets me to work, I aint spending the money to take it in. I drove a 2005 chevy express for 3 years with a blinking check engine light because of a misfire. The frame rusted out before the drive train failed. Best $1000 I never spent

Pro-tip: if you old 5.7 1991-1995 (pre-vortec) has an issue at idle or starting and then immediately dying, change the COOLANT TEMP SENSOR .

I think I have that same shirt...

Thanks Mr and Mrs car wizard.

I'm in the market for a large SUV, Cadillac Escalade or suburban, Denali Tahoe GM..

I'm hearing the best years would be 2000 through 2006?

I want four-wheel drive AWD and I plan on occasionally towing a 20 ft toy hauler (not in overdrive)

On the 08 the low oil pressure alrm was the screen filter on the top back of the block. I didnt have to drop the oil pan on my truck.

You can get nearly any part at lmc or classic industries for the action line and squarebody

I own a 03 tahoe and I'm 23 and so far I've changed transmission solenoid evap purge sensor fuel pump and the rear rotors all my self with the the help of an 15 dollar obd2 scanner I've took the air intake off too it's not really that hard just had to have a little confidence

Seems like most Gm, Ford, or Ram made after 2003, seem to have more of a durability problems than the ones before.

I found in MN in a dealer a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Z71 Crew Cab 4WD in good condition with 97,899 miles for $14,995, clean title 0 accident, what do you think the truck is worth the price?

You forgot to mention the 4.3 v6 vortec that still ran on the 99-07 classic models.I have an 00/01 silverado ext cab with the 4.3 v6.That thing is running strong still using a distributor and with the spider injectors.I just love it.

I bought a 2005 Suburban 5 years ago with 215k now with 260k. It's been pretty reliable. About 1.3 things go defective per year. Crank position sensor, water pump, heater hose couplers, A/C door blend actuator, alternator maybe, master window switch. Everything else I've had to fix was rust related like brake lines and cables and dust shields, rear main was leaky when I got it, ABS controller was lit when I got it so I've spent some money between stuff like that and getting some rust repair on the body but everything else was just normal maintenance like brake pads and calipers upper control arms and a couple of tie rods. Surprised the wheel bearings have held up getting it as old and used as I got it but they've been fine. No problems with the drivetrain other than it leaked oil when I got it. Only break down was the brake lines rusting out in my driveway though was lucky to get home when the crank position sensor went but that was an easy and cheap repair. Original exhaust. Almost into September and the only repair this year was a $150 weld job for a rear upper shock mount that tore off. 300k is the goal and reevaluate if I want to throw a new set of Michelin LTX's on it or sell it. I had a 96 Bronco before this and that was a pain in the butt but it looked cool. I finally got it running and driving the best it ever had with me after 10 years with it and decide to sell it for financial reasons and the power steering pump immediately goes out just as a final FU to me. Literally every suspension part connected to the frame I had to replace including the steering knuckles which were rotten (took me a year to find a good set) with way less years and mileage than the Suburban. Go Chevy!

It is harder to get to everything and takes longer to do the newer the vehicle

Easier to figure out what os wrong but not Easier to work on... easy to work on is hours correlated...

400 is a small block..... in the 80s you could still get parts for basically anything after ww2 and some from before....

seen a 71 gmc $70,000 today on market place

1994 gmc 1500 4.3liter good truck?

This is the true sad story of the Chevy truck.

1954 or 1967

Chevy trucks come with lots of RUST

What about, the 1997 K 1500 Cheyenne model regular cab short box 4x4 305ci 5.0l V8 automatic Transmission?

60's era you have to go with the 283. Best Chevy performance motor for the period. First motor to get 1hp per CI. Super tough that would take any amount abuse you gave it. Another really great motor was the 327. Fairly unsung but at one point it was the most powerful naturally aspirated, single-cam, production small-block V8 made @ 375hp. Again, super tough motor.

NONE!

1970 C10 also had a 307 V8 available. My dad had one. They were cold hearted beasts: meaning in chicago winters if you didn't have put a block heater in it. It was guaranteed it wouldn't start in the winter. Sun come up or put a torpedo heater on it and it would start fine. We used to plow the front end into a snow bank to keep the wind out so it would start in the morning. But yeah that thing pulled camper trailers and boats all over everywhere, with a camper top and 5 kids/gear in the back. Through the Rocky Mtns and across Canada. for years. Had a points distributor. Leaf springs. One year the hitch broke at the weld pulling boat. Didn't come off but the ball end dragged the ground. Dad got it welded back up and we were back on the road. It never one time complained or overheated or failed in any way. It just ran and smiled through the abuse we gave it. Good times.

Last year I sold my 2015 Z71 with 77k miles and bought a '07 Sierra Classic with the 5.3 and 172k miles. It's been a great truck and feels much more durable than my 2015!

Need an update with the newer models. They are starting to get cheap.

Can we just go back to Throttle Body injection? Direct Injection is a failure imo.

Ive had numerous 97 to 99 Suburbans with the spider poppet unit. These can be changed out in less than an hour, 2 hours if you dont know the sizes of all the bolts, its not that hard.

I like my GMC 2001 4x4 with 4.8, with 370k. Runs like a top. My son has a 2004 4x4 Yukon with 5.3. We need 4x4s in BC, Canada.

I know your not going to answer this but what is your opinion of a 2001 chevy 3500 dually with an 8.1 vortec?

I hsve had and still do have a 72' C-10 doing a frsme up on it. ive also owned a 74 half ton, an 81 3/4 ton and a 2006 silverado 1500 and currently a 2022 silverado 1500. All were single cab long bed styles. I loved the 72 and am upgrading it substantially. it has a 383 small block with A holly 4 barrel tpi.
and a Richmond Gear 5 speed. fun truck to drive. but the best one I ever owned was my 2006 silverado 1500 LT. 265,000 miles on it and rrplaced one transmission and an alternator on it other routine maintenance like brake pads oil changes and the like. never used a drop of oil and still had great compression. I would still be dtiving it had some guy not run a rrd light and took the whole front end off when he hit me. My 2022 seems to be great so far, but only has 20,000 miles on it.,

My 1973 Dodge crewcab with a 360 and positrack lasted for years.