RV Propane Overview & Three Tests To Ensure Proper Propane Function (Hole size is a '#41' not an 'X'

You are an awesome teacher! Professor Superdave

Legend.

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Excellent explanation, very useful, practical lesson, to the point, much appreciated !

I really like your videos. Having been the victim of a propane explosion so I'm super afraid of it, although you feel it is very safe. When you do the 50% test, it appears that you are not worried about the propane escaping into the area? Also, when you put the fittings together, do you use any type of thread sealant. Thanks from a fellow Louisianan!

I cannot thank you enough for your informative video. Our furnace quit in 2019. We live in the south so we just did without and added more blankets. I tried to get a mobile rv tech to come out but no one would. When my refrigerator and stove stopped working, I started searching the internet. Luckily I found your video. When I learned that furnace needed more pressure than stove or refrigerator, I bought a new regulator. Success!! Now all my propane appliances work and I didn’t even have to pay someone to fix it. Than you, thank you, thank you.

Good video. Just one thought about your air cleaning of the propane line. Draw a vacuum on the propane line instead of pressurizing it. Too much air pressure can damage the diaphragm in regulators that are still connected.
PS. I’m a 35 year master plumber.

Hi Rick here I have a 5500 propane gen in my 5th wheel that hasn't worked in 3 years start and die wich was my fault for not starting it yearly but anyway I had a factory tech come out and diagnose it he said it needed a mother board 500 to 700 dollars wich I didn't have at that time then I had a friend suggest that if the moter doesn't run its probly not the moter board then I found your video's on how to diag a heater wich I also had problems with so I made the set up to ck the fuel pressure and sure enough it had 11 water pressure when I turned the gen on it went to 0 so I blew out all the lines still the same thing so I replaced the regulater and re ck the pressure is good and the gen runs it only drops 1 water lb Thank you Jesus
THANK You for your video's it saved my lots of $$$$

Hi Darren,

We sent you an email a while back about the document you have with the list of parts to build your propane test device. We haven't heard back. We'd love to know how to build this test device.

Outstanding video Darren! You should sell that kit with the 4-way valve and all the caps.

Hi Darren. I’ve learned a ton of info watching your videos. I just did a test on my LP system and am wondering if a 1/4” pressure drop in 15 minutes is acceptable.

Wife overheard this video when the subject of Inches popped up (pun intended) and she's assured me that unfortunately, we're NOT in the 10" club :(
...... Damn U Darren.... lolz
~excellent video sir, stay safe out there in this Republic's current ground zero battle field of those zany lunatic Libtards-N-Charge

"Looks like we're gonna need a bigger Class C"
~PeasOut

This guy needs to move to Vancouver Island so I can hire him. Grateful he shares his vast knowledge, truly a master of his trade. A+++

Fantastic teaching! 😀

Lol ya get no love from Darren. Hahaha

Can you put this testing method anywhere on the system or it has to have certain conditions to be most ideal?

Darren, Thanks for presenting this video and following it I found a propane leak I didn’t know I had. I’m a DIY mostly automotive and making the test rig was easy including a U-tube. I removed the HW burner to gain access to the line, attached and started measuring including a flow test. When I did the leak down, I could just about watch the water column drop. I was losing pressure. Soap bubbled all connections that had access, no luck. Then I decided to disconnect and cap appliance service lines one at a time and repeat the leak down. The last one was the Atwood furnace. As soon as I capped it, no more leak down. Then I rigged propane service to the removed furnace valve, turned gas on and a tiny bubble formed at the gas orifice. Ordered new valve, R&R. Furnace works and repeated the same leak down test starting at 9”WC after dropping pressure as you demo’d. It held 5 min w/o any drop. And during the new valve installation I found several tiny insects had found their last resting place behind the orifice. And now I have a service tool to assist friends with, carefully. Thanks, Gary

Hello Darren, first thank you for all your teachings, when you did the 3 minute test, I understand you bled off into your tube with tank off. After the 3 minutes did you did you bleed off into your tube again to determine if the was a leak? Also I would really like to have info on your shut off valve assembly. Thank you for your time and consideration
Gary

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Once again you are one awesome instructor. I had looked all over for how to set the regulator in you tube videos and found nothing. And I have watched a numerous amount of yours and again yours is always the best! Why I didn't see yours first is beyond me. Keep up the awesome videos. As others have said...You Rock!!!

A slack tube is a true manometer. Any liquid filled "U" tube pressure instrument is a true manometer. Digital manometers and dial manometers (pressure gauge) are not true manometers. They are only called manometers because of the low pressure range they measure. They are always calibrated against a true "U" tube manometer. Otherwise, a good video.

Could you just turn on one of the stove burners and the frig or the water heater for the 50% test.

You made an excellent video!! Thanks

Excellent. !
Very good !! Easy to follow , understand...

Another informative video from a master technician. Your videos fill my need to learn and understand the technical aspects of the systems found in my RV. Thank you very much.

This was a very good video for me. I have a truckbed camper that has this type problem, I believe. The stove will light but it has a yellow flame that rises high. Also the furnace will light but only burns for about a minute or so. It make sense that it is a regulator problem. I can see the regulator underneath the sink but it is a fixed pressure regulator (doesn't have the part that you can adjust the flow/pressure. I guess my only option is to replace the regulator. Any thought?

Hey Darren two brief questions... When you check the water column reading on a NORCOLD N306RM8 rv refrigerator with a low, med, hi temperature selector dial where is the best place to hook up to get an accurate reading? Second to blow out any contaminants in lp lines in a travel trailer would you disconnect the output LP hose from the regulator and then blow compressed air from an lp line on the far side of the RV such as the stove or refrigerator? Thank you.

Thanks for all the information you share. I always look through your videos to help me troubleshoot problems. Always use a backup wrench on fittings✔️ I have a question about measuring LP. Can I put a permanent gauge after the regulator to see my PSI?

I wanted to add an LPG outlet to connect my BBQ grill at a location outside the RV, what do I need to do it safe and legal? Can I just tap into the LPG line anywhere? Thanks.

Accurate, comprehensible, and immediately applicable!

When our propane guy filled my 30 lb tank ( type fastened to the rv) it leaked when he took off his filling hose. He tried to fix it by tapping the valve but it continued to leak so he put on a safety cap. What should I do next. Dave

Do you have to test every time you change elevation and temps?

I really enjoyed the video, I used to train people in the use of handheld gas sniffers, the number one mistake made by professionals such as haz - mat personnel is they sometimes don't "zero" the detector in outside air. There have been cases where a location has been cleared as "safe" only to have an explosion because the detector was turned on and zeroed in the presence of combustible gas. Make sure it is turned on, warmed up briefly and zeroed outside the coach.

Thanks again Darren!

#36 orifice or a #41 what one is it for proper test ?

do the pressure settings/tests change above 6000 ft of altitude?

on/off handle on my on board propane tank will not turn on or off. any ideas???

Propane expands 270 times when it changes from a liquid to a vapor.

THANK You Sir.

This guy makes the best videos! Straight to the information, clear and concise!
Thank you

Great video and my new fave to learn from. Just wish the link to your homemade tool wasn't dead. I'd like to make that tool.

Excellent video! When I was doing the sealed test, I turned off the gas at the tank and the pressure held for about 1.5 to 2 minutes, then it suddenly dropped to zero. It was rock sold for those first two minutes, then it completely dropped out all at once, in 1 or 2 seconds. Do you know what would cause that? This is on a 1987 Airstream Excella.

Darren, the NRVTA also taught us to pull the center burner out and test from that port. Their argument was 1) not having to break into the gas line, and 2) any variance in WC pressure would be reflected through the stove top's regulator. I asked about this and was "shot down". I can see the 50% load and drop test being able to be read through the stovetops regulator, but I agree with you that the stove's regulator could mask an overly high lock out pressure as you show in this vid. Well done, Sir!

Thank you. This was better than Netflix. Great information

Darren my Class A has a propane outlet for a propane grill which is I guess low pressure. Not regulated on grill so is uses the RV regulator. I think I can do the test from there by adding a quick connect to the tester. Is this correct?

Thank you very much Darren for sharing, I have learnt a lot from this detailed video. You have inspired me to get some of the basic RV work done without taking the RV to the dealer.

Great vids

Great Video!!! I learned much!!!